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exergy33
Am ajuns cu cititul spre finalul travelogului smile.gif , deci stiu care au fost impresiile shahului despre Franta, Italia, Austria, Turcia si Georgia (le voi posta in continuare, dupa etapa britanica, asa cum dealtfel mi-am propus de la inceput).

Iata care a fost progamul englez :
ENGLAND ; 18 DAYS. Visits of ceremony, 144 ; receptions, 145 ; banquet at Marlborough House ; ball at Stafford House, 146 ; visit to the Queen, 147 ; Order of the Garter, 148 ; drive to Virginia Water and back, 149 ; evening party at Guildhall, 151 ; Woolwich, 155 ; theatre, 157 ; Zoological Gardens, 158 ; Naval Review at Portsmouth, ICO ; concert at Albert Hall, 1G4 ; review at Windsor, 1G7 ; ball at Foreign Oflace, 170 ; Tower, 171 ; trip down the river ; the Docks, 172 ; Greenwich Hos- pital ; Lord Nelson, 173 ; Naval College ; Observatory ; return ; tides, 174 ; state ball, 175 ; to Liverpool, 176 ; emigrants, 177 ; * Trentham Hall, 179 ; works at Crew, 182 ; Manchester, 183 ; Chiswick, 185 ; Richmond, 187 ; Lord Russell ; Whigs and Tories, 188 ; receptions ; Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, 189 ; fire brigade, 190 ; boxing, 191 ; Crystal Palace, 191 ; gymnasts, 193 ; beggars ; perambulators, 195 ; Tower ; St. Paul's, 196 ; Bank, 197 ; Parliament, 198 ; Westminster Abbey, 200 ; visit of adieu to Windsor, 201 ; Prince Consort's tomb, 203 ; Mme. Tussaud's, 204 ; Crystal Palace, 206 ; balloons, 209 ; Albert Hall ; donkey picture, 210 ; St. Thomas's, 211 ; Duke of Argyll's ; bagpipes ; sword-dance ; telegraph, 212 ; Albert memorial ; Drury-Lane, 213 ; leave London, 214 ; reach Portsmouth ; embark in the " Rapide" ; reach Cherbourg, 216.

Daca Germania l-a cucerit pe Nasser al Din Shah, Anglia i-a inlantuit inima ... wub.gif

socul produs de primirea calduroasa facuta de londonezi

QUOTE
From the rapidity of our motion fire came out of the wheels, and one carriage caught fire.
It wanted but little for all to be burnt. They stopped the train, got down, and extinguished the fire. All was right, and again we went on until we reached the beginning of the city of London.
Again it is impossible to describe the prosperity, the populousness, the extent of the city, the numbers of lines of railway over which incessantly the trains come and go in every direction, the smoke of the manufactories, and the like.
We travelled over the exteriors of the roofs of the houses ; and thus we reached the station and stopped.

There was an assemblage of spectators, and a crowd, beyond all limits ; there were the armour-wearing English household cavalry ; there was the Nawwab the Heir-Apparent of England, known as the Prince of Wales ; and the whole of the Ministry, of the notables, and of the nobles, were present.
We alighted. I, the Heir-Apparent, the Grand-Vazir, and Lord Morley, the Lord-in-Waiting upon us, took our seats in an open carriage, and drove off.
Both sides of the road, the roofs, the upper stories of the houses, were full of women,
men, and children, who exhibited much joy and pleasure by shouting hurrahs, by waving handkerchiefs, by clapping hands. It was a surprising turmoil. I saluted incessantly with head and hands. The crowd of spectators was never-ending.
The population of the city is said to be over eight crores (four millions) of souls. It has most lovely women. The nobleness, the greatness, the gravity and sedateness of the women and men shine out from their countenances.


devil.gif ... si o concluzie interesanta

QUOTE
One sees and comprehends that they are a great people, and that the Lord of the Universe has bestowed upon them power and might, sense and wisdom, and enlightenment. Thus it is that they have conquered a country like India, and hold important possessions in America and elsewhere in the world.
Their soldiers are very strong of frame and beautifully attired; their armour-wearing household cavalry are very strong and handsome young men, exquisitely dressed, like the cavalry in Russia.


Sar peste dineurile si intalnirile cu personalitati ca Printul de Wales, Ducele de Edinburgh, Ducele de Cambridge, Ducele de Sutherland .... si trec direct la intrevederea oficiala cu regina Victoria.

QUOTE
We have to go to Windsor Castle, the residence of Her Most Exalted Majesty Victoria, Sovereign of England, which is one hour's journey by rail. So we dressed, and then taking our seat in the carriage with the Grand-Vazir and Lord Morley, started.
Crowds beyond limit were standing at the ends and on both sides of our road. There were that
number of carriages that no one could count them. Passing along the drive in Hyde Park, and through the town, we reached the station, and took our seat in the train.
The carriages were most sumptuous, each side being a single sheet of plate glass. We traversed inhabited places, the open country, and green meadows ; and at length Windsor Castle rose to view at a distance, appearing like a fortress with four turrets.
Arriving near thereto, we alighted and got into a carriage. All our suite were of the party. At the foot of the steps of the Castle we alighted.
Her Most Exalted Majesty the Sovereign advanced to meet us at the foot of the staircase. We got down, took her hand, gave our arm, went up stairs, passed through pretty rooms and corridors hung with beautiful portraits, and entering a private apartment, took our seat. The Sovereign presented her children, relations, and officers. We, too, on our part, presented our princes, the Grand-Vazir, and the others.
The Lord Chamherlain, who is the Minister of the Court of the Sovereign, brought for us the
Insignia of the Order of the Garter set in diamonds; i.e., the Knee-tie, which is one of the most esteemed English Orders. The Sovereign rose, and with her own hand decorated us with the Order, and cast the ribbon upon us, presenting us at the same time with a long stocking-tie.
[...]
I received the Order with the utmost respect, and sat down. I too presented to the English Sovereign the " Order of the Sun," set in diamonds, with its ribbon, and also the Order of my own Portrait, which she received with all honour and put them on herself.


... povesteste despre felul in care se toasteaza thumb_yello.gif

QUOTE
When the dancing was over, we again gave our arm to the wife of the English Heir-Apparent, and went to supper a dinner after midnight. We passed through large halls and many staircases and corridors, all full of men and graceful women, and in the rooms and staircases of which they had arranged all sorts of flowers and shrubs grown in vases.
Thus we reached a large hall, where they set out the supper-table. About four hundred persons were seated around this table. An individual, one of the citizens, who was the Lord Mayor's deputy, stood behind me, and every now and then made proclamation with a loud voice to the persons of the company, that they were to prepare themselves for a toast ; with this signification :
" The Lord Mayor drinks wine to the health of the great ; all must stand up and drink." First of all the Lord Mayor drank to our health ; then the Heir-Apparent of England gave a toast, and again the Lord Mayor gave one.
Each time, that individual gave notice to the company beforehand.

Supper finished, we rose, returned to our home, and went to bed. Throughout our return drive, too, when it was midnight, there was the same dense crowd. This evening the Chief Usher and the Grand-Vazir rode with me in my carriage.

The Sovereign of England keeps a book, in which each person who goes to Windsor Castle to see her inscribes his name ; I, too, wrote mine to-day.


viziteaza cu mare interes fabricile de armament din Woolwich ...

QUOTE
The Duke of Cambridge, Prince Alfred, Prince Arthur, General Wood, Commander of the Artillery, and Military Governor of Woolwich, together with other commanders of artillery, infantry, all came forth to meet us, and formed a procession in front of us.
We, in our carriage, drove to see the factories. We traversed a considerable distance through streets and public places, where crowds were assembled on both sides of our path, shouting hurrahs, and whom I saluted in turn, until we reached the workshops. We alighted and entered these.

It is now the system no longer to cast cannons in moulds. They make, with implements they use, sheets of iron into pipes, of the size they wish the cannons to be.
These they convey to another shop, place them under steam-hammers, and squeeze them, and weld them, so that they become cannons. They told me this system is held in greater consideration.

One by one we visited the workshops. In one place they draw rifled cannons (as they draw wire), in another they cut, in another they bore, in another they hammer.
Quantities of useless cannon of old pattern were lying in front of the workshops ; and numbers of shot, with large supplies of material, were collected ; this place being the arsenal of all England.

After all these visits and venturing near to the furnaces of fire, which were pretty warm, we mounted our carriage and drove to the edifice, by the flank of which we had before passed.
There a breakfast was laid out. It is a hall where the officers of the land and naval forces, as
well as those of the artillery, eat breakfast. It was a nice place.


Cu surprindere totala am descoperit ca Nasser al-Din Shah le-a ascultat pe Adelina Patti si Emma Albani, legende ale muzicii de opera !

QUOTE
Having to go to the theatre in the evening, we dressed ; and having taken our seat in a carriage with the Sovereign's Master of the Horse, who is an intelligent man, and the Lord Chamberlain, we drove there. There were great crowds by the way, all of whom we saluted. We arrived at the theatre. The Heirs-Apparent of England and Russia, the wives of both, the princesses, the princes, and the magnates, were all present.
It is a very large and beautiful theatre, with six tiers of seats. They acted some beautiful scenes, the number (of actors) being also large.
They had sent expressly to Paris and had called from thence Patti, who is one of the renowned
songstresses of Farangistan (Europe). She sang most exquisitely.
She is an exceedingly graceful woman. She accepted a fabulous sum of money, and came to London.

There was another also, Albani by name, from Canada in America, who sang extremely well and performed some wonderful feats.

rolleyes.gif
exergy33
Daca veti citi in amanunt programele de calatorie veti vedea ca si in Germania shahul a vizitat mai multe gradini zoologice si botanice. Cei ce i-au comentat ulterior jurnalul, de-a lungul unui secol si mai bine, au fost oarecum surprinsi de placerea nedisimulata a suveranului persan de a admira plante rare si de a se afla in preajma pasarilor exotice si a animalelor de tot felul.

QUOTE
Well ; the wild beasts here are separated from one another in special cages. There were here several interesting animals, which had not been seen (by us) elsewhere.
First, the hippopotamus, i.e., the marine horse, which is a curious thing. There were three of them ; one pair, male and female, with one young cub born in this very place, and already of considerable age. This was standing out of the water, the full-grown ones being in the water. People threw; food into its mouth, which it opened like a gateway. It had very rugged teeth, and was of an enormous size.
From what I could make out, this is the marine rhinoceros. Secondly, there was a monkey of great size and very repulsive in appearance ; it was exactly like a human being, and more especially had it the hands and feet of a man.
Its keeper made it dance ; he stamped with his foot, it stood up ; he spoke (to it), it understood English ; it then walked forwards towards us, but it continually evinced the desire that they should hold it by the hand and lead it. They then sent it into the cage of the monkeys, where it leapt and sprang about in a wonderful manner, and played like a rope-dancer.
Thirdly, the sea-lion and the sea-fox, which were in a basin of water, around which was a railing.
An individual spoke to them in French ; they showed great intelligence. The lion was of a considerable size, its body being covered with a fine down, and its feet resembHng the fins of a fish and the wings of a bat, but it ran along with them at a good pace. At the side and in the middle of the basin there was a bench, on which a chair had been placed. It got up on the chair, and sat down.
The fox (seal) was like the lion, but smaller.
They dived beneath the water ; the keeper gave a sound ; immediately on which, they came out of the water and kissed their keeper, who had seated himself on the bench.
He said: "One kiss;" "Two kisses." As many as he asked for, kisses they gave him. It was a strange sight.
Fourthly, there were some very small monkeys, no bigger than the rat of Sultaniyya (perhaps the
marmot), very curious.
There were elephants, rhinoceroses, maned-lions, black panthers, tigers, and other beasts ; also birds, and parrots of all colours.
Besides these there were many other places to visit ; but I was tired and could not go about. The
crowds, too, were very great ; so we returned home.


vizita la o expozitie tehnica

QUOTE
We first were shown into a corridor more than six or seven ells wide (21 ft. to 24 ft. 6 in.), and covered over with glass. It was said to be of iron. On either side of this corridor were ranged various factory machines, i.e., small machines like models, but beautifully made, and very pretty, that were put in motion by steam power.
We noticed many industrial processes, sweetmeat-making, cigar and tobacco-making, the cutting of the flour threads, called macaroni by the Franks, lemonade-making, soda-water-making, where the bottles are filled and securely corked in an instant, tunbridge-ware-making, silk-winding, cloth-weaving, newspaper-printing, and many various branches of art and industry that we cannot enumerate. They were performed with ease by these machines. It was in great detail.

The management of this exhibition is in the hands of the magnates of England, of the Foreign Secretary Lord Granville, and others. They walked on before us, the Heirs-Apparent of England and Russia being present, with others.


... printre altele shahul face cunostinta si cu folclorul scotian
QUOTE
This evening there is to be a ball in the upper rooms of this very palace of ours. In the evening, therefore, we went upstairs. Everybody was there. We took the hand of the wife of the Heir-Apparent, walked off, and sat down.
Everybody danced the ordinary ball dance ; after which a man of Scotland came attired in the Scotch garb and played the bagpipes, which make a noise like the trumpet of Iran. Prince Alfred, Prince Arthur, and others, danced a Scotch dance.
Well; after this dance the company broke up, and we went to another room to supper. They had placed food and fruit on the table ; of which all ate. The Indian prince was also there. We then descended and went to bed.

To-morrow we have to go to the cities of Liverpool and Manchester ; also to the castle of Trentham, which is the property of the Duke of Sutherland.


... la Manchester vede ce inseamna poluarea

QUOTE
The city of Manchester, by reason of its exceeding number of manufactories, has its houses, doors and walls, black as coal. So much so, that the complexions, visages, and dresses of the people are all black.
The whole of the ladies of that place at most times wear black clothing, because, no sooner do they put on white or coloured dresses, than put they are suddenly black.


... se intalneste cu Lordul Radcliffe
QUOTE
Well ; next came Lord Redcliffe (the Right Honourable Lord Viscomt Stratford de Redcliffe, K.G., K.C.B.), so well known, and had an audience. He sat down, and we conversed much.
This personage is one of the great diplomatists of Europe. He was for more than twenty years the English (Ambassador Extraordinary and) Minister Plenipotentiary at Constantinople, where he exercised great influence.
In the Sebastopol war he upheld the policy of England and opposed the Russians. In the days of the first Napoleon even, when Qardan Khan (General Gardanne), the French Envoy, left Persia, and the late Khaqan, Fath-Ali Shah, of pious memory, received the English, he had entered the service, though not in Persia.
According to one's recollections of those times, he must be nearly eighty-five years old ; and still he conversed with the utmost wisdom and knowledge.
He suffers from gout. Were he not so afflicted, I am of opinion that he still is in possession of the judgment, intellect, and stamina for the English Government to confide important missions to him.


... cersetorii, porumbeii si landourile din Europa (Farang sau Farangestan, cum se exprimau in acele vremuri persanii)

QUOTE
The heggars of Firangistan, instead of asking for alms, play musical instruments, as guitars or violins, and never heg. If some one gives them money, they take it ; if not, they go on playing.

In the garden at the back of our palace a great number of cock and hen pheasants were seen in the trees.
There are multitudes of pigeons in Firangistan ; and, as in Persia, pigeon-fliers send them up. Especially in Belgium did we see many of them.

They place sucklings and little children in small carriages (perambulators), and during the day-time wheel them about by hand in the avenues and on the lawns, in a very pretty manner ; and the children go to sleep in the carriages.


voi incheia cu curiozitatile vazute la Banca Centrala din Londra ... rolleyes.gif

QUOTE
There were three curious things seen in that place. Firstly, in each machine that prints the bank-notes, there were three (dials like those of) compasses, each with hands like those of a watch.
For every number that was printed, these compasses, by the revolution of their hands, took and kept an account. At each movement given to the machine, one note came forth printed ; and a hand moved from subdivision to subdivision (of the dial). The reason of this is that no one may be able to fake any from the number of bank-notes (printed).

Secondly, there were engines for trying and testing the weights of coins ; so that large quantities of gold coins flowed down a place similar to a spout, on each side of which was a repository like a till, and every coin that was light of weight was made to fall, by machinery, into one of those tills, while those of full and perfect weight fell into the other.

Thirdly, there were machines that cut in two, like shears, the coins that were light of weight, throwing them out of circulation, so that they have to be reminted.



Cred ca in etapa cruciala ce a reprezentat-o vizita din Anglia, Nasser Din Shah a inteles perfect, in cazul in care pana atunci ar mai fi avut indoieli smile.gif , ca pentru a fi considerat un suveran important nu e suficient sa construiasca cladiri luxoase ... ca Palatul Golestan.

Imaginile sunt luate tot din Pavilionul Soarelui ...

...
foto 21 ......................................... foto22


...
foto23 ............................................................. foto24
exergy33
Programul de calatorie de 19 zile prin Franta si Elvetia a fost destul de incarcat ... de evenimente si de semnificatii.

FRANCE, SWITZERLAND ; 19 DAYS.

Cherbourg, 218 ; Caen, 219 ; reach Paris, 220 ; Jardin d' Acclimatisation, 225 ; Bois de Boulogne, 226 ; Diplomatists, 227 ;
Versailles, 228 ; group of Apollo, 229 ; Canrobert ; Palikao ; Due d'Aumale ; Prince de Joinville, 231 ; banquet, 232; the Invalides, 233 ;
M. Cremieux ; M. de Rothschild, 236 ; M. Lesseps ; M. Nadar ; M. Tardieu, 237 ; M. Larrey ; M. Cloquet ; M. Boure, 238 ; review, 239 ;
races, 240 ; illumination and fireworks, 243 ; circus, 244 ; Louvre 246 : Panorama, 247 ; Notre Dame, 248 ; Ecole des Mines, 249 : Luxembourg, 250 ; Pantheon ; St. Sulpice ; Madeleine ; Palais Royal, 252
Mint, 253 ; river-baths, 254 ; Gobelins, 255 ; Louvre again, 256 Tuileries, 257 ; Sevres porcelain, 258 ; the Assemblee Nationale, 259 Jardin des Plantes, 2G] ; party at the Elysee, 266 ; party at the Foreign Office, 267 ; Vincennes, 268 ; Sisters of Charity's school,
269 ; Circus, 270 ; cafes chantants, 271 ; Jardin Mabille, 272 ;


leave Paris, 273 ; Dijon, 274.
Switzerland. Geneva, 277 ; Lake of Geneva, 279 ; Vevay ; King of Holland, 281 ; excursion into Savoy; 283 ; banquet ; presents ;
museum, 285 ; M. Favre, 286 ; Swiss system, 287 ;


leave Geneva, 288 : France again. Aix-les-Bains ; Chambery ; Modane ; Mont Cenis tunnel, 289 ; Turin, 291 ; Royal Family; 293 ; Superga ; Synagogue, 294.

Primele impresii ...

QUOTE
The majority of the women and men in France are small made and attenuated of limb ; they are not like the inhabitants of Russia, Germany, and England, but more resemble the people of the East.

East = Orient[(ul) Mijlociu]

QUOTE
Well; our train started. To-day we traversed the province of Normandy, a beautiful country, abounding with produce. Extensive meadows, trees, flowers, grass, in abundance were there. Beautiful oxen, mares, sheep, are kept in great numbers, by reason of the plentiful pasturages which they possess.
We saw quantities of shrubs and of tamarisk-trees, which cause it to resemble Persia. To-day I saw the greater part of the flowers and trees of Persia in these parts, such as the willow, the ''tabrizi", the tamarisk, and others.
The surface of the soil hereabouts is all up-hill and down-dale, with many peaks.
The apples of the province are famous for their good quality ; and we saw large numbers of apple-
trees.


Mult aclamatul Paris, si Franta in general, l-au deziluzionat partial pe Nasser Din Shah, dar pe de alta parte i-au daruit momente de introspectie, melancolie, incantare si filozofie.

Voi incepe cu deziluziile rolleyes.gif

QUOTE
To-day we noticed a singular frame of mind in the French. First of all, they still keep up the state of mourning that followed the German war, and they are all, young or old, sorrowful and melancholy.
The dresses of the women, ladies, and men, are all dresses used for mourning ; with little ornamentation, and very plain. Now and then some of the people shouted: "Vive le Marechal," " Vive le Schah de Perse ; " from another one I heard, as I strolled about by night, a loud voice saying : " May his reign and rule be firm and enduring."
From the whole of these (circumstances) it becomes evident that there are at present in France numerous parties who desire a monarchy ; but they are in three sections, one desiring the son of Napoleon, another the dynasty of Louis-Philippe, and the third Henry the Fifth, who is of the Bourbon family ; and although this and the family of Louis-Philippe are really one race, they have distinctions.
The wishers for a republic, on the other hand, have great power ; but they are not all of one mind. Some are for a Red Republic, which is a fundamental commonweal.
Others are for a moderate republic, in which monarchical institutions shall be found, without a monarch's existing.
Others again wish otherwise. Among all these diversities of opinion it is now a very difficult matter to govern, and the consequences of these incidents will surely eventuate in many difficulties, unless that all combine on one plan and estabhsh either a pure monarchy or a pure republic.


QUOTE
Well ; the troops drawn up to-day in line were nearly twenty thousand in number. This edifice which is allotted to as as our residence, was formerly the Council-House, i.e., the House for the meeting of the Deputies of the nation.
Since the expulsion of the third Napoleon from the sovereignty, and the establishment of a republic in France, the Deputies and the Government have all gone to Versailles, and have left the city of Paris entirely void of the governmental administrations.
The city of Paris is now in reality the property of the peasantry and common people, who do whatever they like, as the Government has no adequate means of repression.
The palace of the Tuileries, which was the finest building in the world, is now a mass of ruins, as the men of the Commune set fire to it. Nothing remains of the palace but its walls. We were sadly grieved for tliis ; but, thanks be to God, the palace of the Louvre, which adjoins that of the Tuileries, has been saved and is not destroyed.


QUOTE
In the alleys and streets, every twenty steps they have built a column, not very tall, which has a hole inside. It's for people's urination. People stand up in front of each other, without any shame, [dick] in hand, peeing. The stink of urine is in all the alleys.
[...]
In sum, the city of Paris is without splendor, without chiefs, without nobles, and without a king; it's obvious what a place without a king looks like.

smile.gif ...
exergy33
Ma voi abtine sa dau citate din jurnal ce descriu intalnirile oficiale si voi decupa doar acele pasaje ce redau felul in care si-a petrecut Nasser al-Din Shah timpul liber.
Din cele patru sute saizeci si ceva de pagini de jurnal scrise de dansul, tronsonul francez e pe departe bucata care-mi place cel mai mult. In special felul in care descrie curiozitatile.

... cat de mult l-au captivat pe shah gradinile zoologice si cele botanice wub.gif

QUOTE
Monday, (7th July)
After breakfast we mounted our carriage and set out for a drive about town. We passed along a street named Parc-Monceau a very beautiful street, by a very pretty flower-garden, and arrived at the Arc de Triomphe, going from thence towards the Bois de Boulogne, where we first visited the Jardin d'Acclimatisation.
Here we alighted and entered the garden.
There were some flowers ; and there was a place built up of rocks, like a natural mountain.
Passing by these, we came to the park for wild animals, and for birds. They had prepared nettings of wire around rooms, and within these they had set up trees and introduced water for the use of the animals and birds.
We here saw various kinds of birds and of parrots from the New World, Africa, India, and Australia. There were also monkeys and other things.
There is an animal called the kangaroo, that is found in Australia, very similar to the jerboa. It is a singular thing ; it jumps swiftly, but cannot walk. Its fore-legs are short, its hind-legs long. It. must jump always. It is of the size of a large jackal.
The female has a pouch on the lower part of her belly, where she puts her young after they are born, and so jumps and runs about. They are very swift runners.

There were some very curious pheasants, with beautiful plumage, of all colours, that we saw also. There were likewise two elephants on which litters were arranged, and so women and children rode about on them.
There was also a droshka in which a man was seated, harnessed to an ostrich, which drew it about easily, having the strength of a small horse.


... e dificil de scris la Paris sorry.gif

QUOTE
It is extremely difficult to write up our diary in Paris day by day and in detail. Our strolls about the beautiful promenades by night as well as by day leave no chance for us to carry on the diary. However, all that is needful shall be entered in a succinct manner.


... o analiza intre cursele de cai pariziene si cele din Persia thumb_yello.gif
QUOTE
Another day we went again to Longchamps to witness the horse-racing. The Marshal came himself to our residence, where we mounted a carriage and started.

The rest (of our people) went also. We followed the same route to the Bois de Boulogne that we had taken-on the day of the review. From thence, however, we went behind the cascade, but only to arrive at the same stand where we were seated to witness the march past.
The Minister of Foreign Affairs, M. Buffet, the wife of the Marshal, the commanders and others, the Ottoman Ambassador, and the Austrian Ambassador, were there.
Women and men in multitudes were assembled around the race-course. Four heats were run. They had given to each race the name of a Persian province; such as Ispahan, Shiraz, &c. In the first heat they ran half round the course, which is one horse-distance.
One jockey, whose dress was green, in accordance with the Persian ribbon, won the race. In the next two heats they ran round the entire course; but, as the distance is not great, most of the horses came in together. The horse that gets ahead, say, by one head and neck, of the others, is counted to have been first in.
The Persian rule for horse-racing is better, and affords a better spectacle.
The Persian race-course is half a league round; six rounds, that is, three leagues, and sometimes seven rounds, are run in one heat. Whichever horse gets the start has given proof of his power.
Here, where at the utmost once round is the length of a race, which is but half a league, the powers of a horse are not fully brought out in evidence.

In the last race the horses had to jump at full gallop over several batriers of wood about an ell in height (42 inches), and garnished at top with wild brambles and furze. This was much better as a spectacle.


panorama il incanta si-i da prilejul unor reflectii ...
QUOTE
One day we went to an establishment called the Panorama, i.e., a scene all round. This is a very wonderful piece of science and art, the inventor of which is a man from the New World.
It was not far from our residence.
The Grand-Vazir and the others were all present. We came to a place where a circular edifice rose to view ; having a small door. We entered, and first we reached a panorama representing a street, one of the streets of Paris, at the time when the Prussians were besieging the city. Shot and shell were falling like hail from the sky.
The time was the winter season. People were coming out of their houses, holding their wives and children by the hand, and fleeing away. The more one examined this scene with attention, the more real and substantial did it appear, so that one could not tell it was a painted picture and not an actual occurence, an incident of the struggle.
One man had fallen down, his head broken, and the blood flowing. It was impossible to discern the pigment from real blood; and so of the other features of the scene depicted.

From thence we had to ascend by some stairs to a place where was a circular enclosure, from which one could look in every direction.
The city of Paris, its forts and environs, the guns and their projectiles, the turmoil of battle and siege, the flight and bursting of shot and shells in the air, all appeared before one.
It was as though at that moment one were in the city of Paris, and all the incidents and confusion of the war with the Prussians were before his eyes.
In short, unless one see it with his own eyes, he cannot miderstand how it is that a fictitious picture and a non-existent circumstance cannot be distinguished from a real event and a current fact.


... remarca principalele biserici

QUOTE
There is in Paris a very large and lofty church, which I had noticed from the top of the Arc de Triomphe, and which is named the Pantheon. Louis XV. built it. First of all it was a church ; then a cemetery for men of eminence ; and now again, latterly, it is a church and place of worship.
There were numerous scaffoldings all around it to carry out repairs, as the Communists, in the days of anarchy, had done much damage to it.

Another church also is in Paris, ranking next after that of Notre Dame, and named St. Sulpice, which is very handsome ; and again the Madeleine, built by the first Napoleon, and also extremely grand. Many other churches were likewise seen, of which it is not here necessary to give any account.


Nasser Din Shah face un veritabil tur de forta cu 'reportajul' despre lumea animalelor si cea a plantelor. Inclin sa cred ca ar fi fost un bun profesor de stiinte naturale smile.gif smile.gif

QUOTE
I one day went to see the Zoological and Botanical Gardens (the Jardin des Plantes), which was a long distance from our residence. The Director of the establishment, named M. Blanchard, of whose days seventy five years had passed away, came to meet us, with his assistant and others.
A large company was present, from the quarters in the outskirts of Paris, generally peasants and artizans, who had come with their wives to see the sight.

These gardens are of great extent. In the botanical section, most beautiful flowers were planted out in great taste.
Every flower and plant in this part is numbered and ticketed, and all plants and medicinal herbs that are employed in the curative art are here raised and propagated.
Professors of botany and zoology are constantly at work there investigating and teaching the qualities and properties of each vegetable product.

We first visited the hothouses, where they raise, grow, and multiply tropical plants, and thence proceeded to view the animals.
Here they keep, shut in cages, all kinds of animals, whether birds, or carnivorous or herbivorous beasts. Birds great and small, of all colours, and beautiful, beasts of prey and others, of every sort were seen.
The establishment is of greater extent than the zoological gardens of other countries ; but every animal that I saw here, I had seen elsewhere, with the exception of a few I had not yet observed:

One of these was a large and strongly built bird, called the Cassowary, that is brought from Australia. It is a very singular creature, about the size of an ostrich, which it also somewhat resembles ; but it is of a different species.
Another was a quadruped, called the Tapir, from South America, very much resembling the rhinoceros, but smaller, being an animal half way between a rhinoceros, a pig, and a calf.
There were some savage, ferocious tigers, and some curious leopards ; also a species of brute between a tiger and a leopard, called the Jaguar; but more approaching the leopard. It is a very ferocious, bloodthirsty creature.
The leopards had given birth to two young cubs, very graceful.
There were some African maned-lions, together with lions of other kinds, and one elephant.
In one large cage there were about fifty monkeys; and there were also various kinds of antelopes.

A source of the greatest interest was a collection of dead animals, kept in the museum of the establishment, which I had not seen in any of the countries hitherto visited.
We here saw animals of every class, fishes from all seas, and other creatures, such as snakes, crabs, crocodiles, tortoises, and all kinds of birds, which afforded much pleasure and gratification.
For instance, the fishes, small or large, up to the crocodile, are arranged in such fashion that one cannot say whether they are alive or dead.

Every bird, again, small or large, that is on earth, from the little humming-birds of the New World, up to the ostrich, all are there. The humming-bird, fly-bird, bee-bird is a bird of the most beautifully-coloured plumage, and small, no larger than large bees (wasps, or hornets) ;but all its parts are those of a bird. There is no bird in the world prettier than these, and they are found nowhere else, but in the New World only.

The whole of these dead birds have been procured in pairs, male and female, with their eggs, and with the very nests they had constructed for themselves; and are arranged in glass cases.
They are placed in the postures they assume when they sit on their eggs in their nests, and in such a manner that they cannot be distinguished from live birds. Beginning with the eggs of the humming-birds, than which no others are smaller, being less in size than a pistachio-nut, up to the egg of the rukh and the ostrich, the largest of all eggs, have they collected in one room.
But I there saw four bird's-eggs, each of which was of the size of a large melon, and they informed me that the kind of bird to which they belonged is no longer in existence in the world. These four eggs have been found and ultimately brought from Africa and the New World after great research and much travel in every region of the earth.
They lifted these eggs ; they were very heavy. According to analogy, the chick that would come out of one of those eggs would be of the size of a very large domestic cock. The birds called Simurg and Rukh, that we read of in books, must have been the produce of eggs such as these. At present, they would not sell one of those eggs for a thousand tumans (400 sterlings).

Strange and marvellous fishes were seen, which, in respect of immensity of bulk and singularity of form, admit of no description.
Monkeys, too, of curious or uncount forms, were there of various classes ; one kind being of the bulk of a horse, another no larger than a rat.
According to their varying sizes, these were also arranged in like manner, as though alive. Among them was one species called the Gorilla, that is found in Africa, bigger and taller than a tiger, with its bulk and size, its strength and muscular limbs, its claws, feet, and teeth. Its stature was twice that of a man, or even more. There were a pair of them, male and female ; the latter being the smaller.

Another of the monkey tribe, a native of the islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Timor, is the Orang-outang, smaller than the gorilla, but still well worthy of remark.
It is very large and fierce.

They had placed a tortoise upon a table, which was of the size of a donkey, extremely large. That, too, was a curious thing, that required to be seen in order to be imagined.

There were some enormous snakes, which, in reality are the dragons of which one hears. They had arranged an artificial tree, and around it had coiled the folds of one of those large snakes, in a manner to he mistaken for a live reptile.
It was wonderful to look at. Not that they have increased or diminished the size of these creatures with a dew to deceive people by artifice ; but, whether large or small, every thing in that museum is a real animal, such as the Lord of the universe created it ; and the Franks have really, with great trouble and at a fabulous expense, brought them together from the uttermost parts of the earth, for the advancement of knowledge, the increase of observation, and the display to the people of God's power in His wondrous works of creation ; the same unceasing care being bestowed upon their safe-keeping.

Truly have they incurred great trouble therein. Were a man actually to sit for five months in the contemplation of these dead animals, bones, and birds, he might then come to understand something about them ; but what can I learn in a quarter of an hour?


... ce mica-i lumea mare cool.gif ... iar un suveran persan si musulman e plin de admiratie fata de modul in care functioneaza o scoala crestina pentru orfani.

QUOTE
In a street near to a public building we observed a large concourse of people standing and waiting for us.
It became evident that General Pajol had given notice to the Sisters of Charity. We alighted and entered theirschool.
One of the priests spoke Persian well. He had been for some time a teacher of the local Romanist children in the school at Khusraw-abad, near Urumiyya in Azarbayjan.
A considerable number of women who have renounced the world and who dress in black, with white bonnets of a curious shape, like the ears of elephants, were there, and give themselves up, in a meritorious way, to the instruction of their pupils.
Their scholars are in six classes ; the school, too, has six stories, each being appropriated to one class of the pupils.
Beginning with children of three and four years old, up to girls and boys of twenty study there, there being a thousand of them maintamed. The most part have been brought there as orphans ;they (the sisters) act as servants and give them instruction in every science, in mathematics, geography, languages, sewing, flower-making ...
The girls make very pretty flowers, and gave us a beautiful bouquet of them as a souvenir.
About two hundred children of four years old were ranged very nicely and orderly on the stages of the gallery in the class-room, who had been taught by an aged religious woman, their preceptress, a song or hymn in French verse commemorative of our arrival, which they had learnt by heart, and which they now sang in a strain of perfect melody.
Grown up girls, too, on the upper stages sang songs and poetry very sweetty.
The manners, the way in which the children and pupils were there attended to, gave me great pleasure.
exergy33
Am promis ca in ceea ce priveste tronsonul francez al sejurului nu voi vorbi despre intalnirile dintre Nasser Din Shah si personalitatile politice.

Din pacate nu ma pot tine de cuvant sorry.gif ... voi face o exceptie, absolut necesara, caci, dupa cum reiese din jurnal, shahul Persiei a dat pentru prima oara aceasta sugestie magnatului Rothschild, nu lui Sir Moses Montefiori. Deci cartile de istorie au propagat o informatie eronata.
Iata despre ce sugestie e vorba.

QUOTE
M. Cremieux, one of the French national deputies, and a Jew, who was always in opposition to Napoleon III, and is a marvellous orator, came to an audience. He is an old man, and very short. He still speaks in the Assembly, and is in opposition to the Government.
The celebrated Rothschild, a Jew also, who is exceedingly rich, came to an audience, and we conversed with him. He greatly advocated the cause of the Jews, mentioned the Jews of Persia, and claimed tranquillity for them.

I said to him : " I have heard that you, brothers, possess a thousand crores of money. I consider the best thing to do would be that you should pay fifty crores to some large or small State, and buy a territory in which you could collect all the Jews of the whole world, you becoming their chiefs, and leading them on their way in peace, so that you should no longer be thus scattered and dispersed."
We laughed heartily, and he made no reply.
I gave him an assurance that I do protect every alien nationality that is in Persia.


Nu pot incheia periplul francez fara a mentiona vizita de onoare facuta de shah la Domul Invalizilor si tributul adus lui Napoleon Bonaparte.
Pentru a intelege ce a reprezentat Napoleon pentru Nasser Din Shah trebuie sa dau niste repere din biografia shahului.
Cred ca ati observat ca din Rusia si pana in Franta, pe tot parcursul zilelor, Napoleon a reprezentat un tovaras de calatorie invizibil. E pomenit deseori in jurnal cu apelativul " the first Napoleon".

Mohammad Shah, tatal lui Nasser al-Din Shah, a fost intaiul shah persan ce a angajat pentru copiii lui o guvernanta frantuzoaica. Primii lui doi copii, o fata si baiatul Naaser, au fost educati de aceasta femeie venita din Franta.
Mai tarziu, pentru baiatul ce urma sa devina shah, a fost angajat un profesor particular din Franta.
Tatal lui Nasser Din Shah i-a cerut acestui profesor sa scrie o biografie a lui Napoleon in limba franceza si sa o ilustreze cu imagini adecvate, insa sa o scrie in asa maniera incat sa fie accesibila copiilor de zece ani.
Dupa aceea a dat ordin ca biografia sa fie tradusa in persana, si, sub forma unei carti pentru copii, biligva si ilustrata, sa fie tiparita la Teheran.
Acea cartulie de 90 de pagini a avut un suces nebun, generatii de copii facand cunostinta intr-un mod facil cu Napoleon si cu istoria Frantei.
Impactul cartii a fost atat de puternic incat pana si taranii de la sate ajunsesera sa povesteasca despre faptele de arme ale lui Napoleon.
Chiar si azi, daca mergi prin sate si catune cuibarite in inima muntilor si stai de vorba cu batrani ce n-au fost o zi din viata lor la scoala, ramai uimit cu ce tragere de inima iti vorbesc despre Alexandru Macedon (Iskandar-e Makedonie) si Napoleon ... nume pe care uneori il stalcesc sub forma "Nepeleon".
Prajiturile Napoleon sunt foarte bine vandute. E vorba despre cremsnit smile.gif ... pana sa vin in Iran nu stiam ca acestea au fost prajiturile preferate ale imparatului.

QUOTE
One day we went to the Invalides, where are seen the tomb of the first Napoleon, those of his commanders and brothers, together with others of older commanders of the days of Louis XIV, &c. At our quarters, which were formerly the Palace of the National Assembly, there is a vast area fronting the Invalides, with avenues full of trees.

We arrived there. The aged veteran soldiers, wounded, some without arms or legs, and some blind, were drawn up in line, and did us military honour, we returning their salute.
In the court of the Invalides are some large old cannon, mortars, and the like. The Governor of the Invalides, a very aged personage, and palsied, was present, whose name was Martinprai. He came to meet us with his aides-de-camp and other officers.
He was formerly a Governor in Algeria, and Chief of the Staff in the Crimean and Itahan campaigns.

We entered the chapel, where was a handsome altar of stone, with gilt-work, which Louis-Philippe, the former King of the French, had set up.
It is a grand structure. On the other side of the altar, under a dome, is the tomb of the first Napoleon, whose body was brought from the island of St. Helena by Louis-Philippe, and buried here.
The stone that covers the tomb, of a pea-green colour, was brought from the island of Corsica ; while the stone above that, a most beautiful Siberian stone, with a ruddy tint, was sent by the Eussian Emperor Nicholas.
The general structure of this chapel of the Invalides is of the time of Louis XIV ; but the altar and some other of its arrangements were constructed by Louis-Philippe.
It was the latter who excavated the interior of the dome, in which the sarcophagus of the tomb is placed. Around it, above, is a walk to which people come to visit the tomb. The palace of the Invalides is a very noble pile, the dome of which was gilt by Napoleon.

We saw there a few veterans who had been in the battles of Waterloo, Friedland, or lena, who were still hale and hearty, and who gave descriptions of those battles.
The following are their names : Captain Duchemin, Chassy, Branche.

On the other side of the tomb was a place where, in a glass case, they had placed the hat worn in his battles by the first Napoleon. We lifted the hat and examined it long. "We held in our hands the hat of a very great monarch and commander.
It was evident from the hat itself that Napoleon had always worn this very hat which was a plain hat.
The sword of Napoleon that was by his side on the field of Austerlitz, was also there.
We took and examined it. The sword was small and straight ; its hilt was of gold, but the sword was rusted, and could not be drawn from the scabbard.
With the utmost veneration did we replace both articles, and came away.



Pentru calatoria din Elvetia am ales doar doua pasaje din jurnal.

shahul face o comparatie intre Mont Blanc si varful Damawand din apropierea Teheranului ...

QUOTE
Above and below it contains numerous apartments, and resembles a kingly palace. The greater part of the larger buildings seen in Europe, and especially in this city, are hotels.
The Rhone flows by the front of the hotel ; its water is very light of digestion and very sweet. Owing to its clearness it assumes an azure colour. In the middle of the river opposite to the hotel there is a small island with trees, and around it a railing. It communicates with the shores by several bridges ; but there are two long wooden bridges on stout piers that are very important, and that lead to the hotel.

The city is on both sides of the river, and it possesses many very great buildings, excellent colleges, and spacious streets beautifully paved with stone.
The whole of its buildings are of five and six stories ; but, in spite of this height, the city is handsome and captivating.
It has a hospitable population, and the manufactories of watches and musical boxes of this city are well known. All musical instruments in boxes, all singing nightingales and crowing cocks, that act by mechanism, are made here and exported to other countries.

The whole of our suite is lodged in this same hotel.
The method of government in the Swiss Confederation is a thing unique in its species, and their customs are different. They have no house or place specially appointed for government ; and for this reason our quarters were at an hotel. Other sovereigns and people of importance that come to this city can have no other quarters than at an hotel.

The Alps mountains and Mont Blanc are seen from the outlook of the hotel. They are much covered with snow; but the Persian mountain of Damawand is considerably more lofty than these, and more picturesque.


complicatele legi din cantoanele elvetiene si specificul administrativ smile.gif

QUOTE
The State of the Swiss Confederation is a republic, and they have very strange customs of administration.
It has altogether a population of five crores (2 millions), and is subdivided into twenty-two cantons.
Each canton has a President, a Government, and an exchequer apart.
There is a Supreme Council of seven members, which has its President, and he is superior to the others ; but one by one these can give no orders concerning public affairs of importance or otherwise. The twenty-two (Cantonal Presidents) report to this (Council of) seven, and these, acting in concert, and each appending his signature, issue the necessary decrees.
In reality, they have no President-General or Absolute Ruler in any one of the cantons or towns ; but, whenever the whole agree together as to any matter, it is put in force ; otherwise, not.
This is a state of affairs the exposition and elucidation of which is extremely difficult, and our Diary is not sufficiently voluminous to embrace a commentary on the laws of the government and details of the regulations of the Swiss State.
More than we have given is unnecessary also.
They have no standing army at alt. When-ever a war breaks out, they arm and drill the peasantry,
and lead them to battle. In time of war they can assemble an army of a hundred thousand men. The seven regents of the State reside in the City of Berne.
exergy33

Am ajuns la penultima etapa a calatoriei lui Nasser al-Din Shah prin Europa.
Italia, Austria ... si din nou Italia, au fost strabatute in 19 zile.

Anexez programul amanuntit smile.gif
ITALY ; AUSTRIA ; 19 DAYS.

Italy. Turin Palace, 295 ; dinner-party ; royal presents, 296 ; theatre,
297 ; wild beasts, 298 ; illumination, 299 ; the Countess di Mirafiori, 300 ;
leave Turin, 301 ; reach Milan, 303 ; the Duomo, 304 ;
banquet ; illuminations, 306 ; leave Milan, 307 ; Lake of Garda ;
Peschiera ; Verona, 308 ; Valley of the Adige ; Ala, 309.


Austria. Franzansvest, 310 ; Innsbruck, 311 ; Rosenheim ; Trauenstein ;
Saltzburg, 312 ; Schonbrunn of Saltzburg, 314 ; Lintz, 317 ;
Emperor at Penzing, 318 ; Laxenburg, 319 ; Knight's Castle, 321 ;
dinner at Schonbrunn of Vienna, 323 ; Exhibition, 325 ; shooting
party, 331 ; screw-pump, 334 ; opera, 335 ; review, 337 ; the Empress :
evening party, 339 ; leave-taking, 341 ; King of Hanover, 342 ;
Saltzburg, 343 ; Innsbruck, 346 ; Schelleberg ; Gossensasse, 347.


Italy again. Ala ; Verona, 348 ; Bologna, 349 ; leaning towers, 350
theatre, 352 ; library and museum, 353 ; leave Bologna ; Rimini
Ancona, 355 ; Brindisi, 356 ; embark for Constantinople, 357 ; Corfu
phosphorescence of the sea, 358 ; Cephalonia ; Zante ; Navarino
Cape Matapan, 359 ; Cape Malea ; Cerigo ; Cape Sunium ; Zea, 360
Negropont ; Andros ; Psara ; Scio, 361.


... o colectie de armuri ... si umbra lui Napoleon intr-un palat din Torino

QUOTE
After breakfast the Sovereign came and we went together to the armoury that is in the palace. There were large numbers of weapons, ancient and modern, such as Persian swords on which
were inscribed verses of Persian poetry in letters of gold; of which we saw several, and also Persian coats of mail and helmets.
There were also some dead horses, made to stand up as though alive, and men, clothed in ancient
Frankish armour, made to ride upon them.
There were some arms of the ancestors and forefathers of this very Sovereign, such as swords and the like.
A sword that the first Napoleon, on the occasion of his adieu at Fontamebleau, gave to an Italian general who was in his service, was there and was examined.
There was a sword, long and pointed, like a spear.
We went up and down for a long time, saw the whole of the arms, and then returned to our own apartments.


... cum vede shahul partea 'agricola' a Italiei smile.gif

QUOTE
The right hand side of the city is all hills. They have built here and there on the hills and in the valleys, which are clothed with forest, very pretty summer-residences. After the train had proceeded a certain distance, the hills on the right hand side receded to a distance, and all became a level open plain, teeming with man and his works.
A large proportion of the crops was Indian corn, and this was newly ripe. A diiference in
the Indian corn of these parts from that of Persia is, in the first place, that the stems of it here are very tall, and secondly, that while the (ears of the) middle of the stems
are the same as in Persia, being edible, the tops of the stems are of another sort, bearing ears like wheat, and pendulous, which they also make into flour and eat ; two kinds of Indian corn (flour) being thus produced on one stem.
[...]
The wheat and barley were harvested. Many mulberry trees for silkworms were noticed in the neighbourhood of Milan. The silk of Italy is renowned for its good quality ; but for several years past, it has not succeeded well. The whole plain was full of trees and crops.


farmecul unui oras: Milano

QUOTE
We arrived at Milan while it yet wanted two horn's and a half to sunset. It has a magnificent and very large terminus, constructed by the Austrian Government at the tune when they possessed this city. We had seen but few stations with such beautiful and extensive accommodations.

We alighted from the train ; the Heir-Apparent of Italy, who had come here yesterday, who is also hunself the special Governor of the place, where he always resides, was awaiting us, with the magistrates, military officers, and civilians. After mutual salutations with the Heir-Apparent, we mounted a carriage.
Immense crowds were in the streets and at the windows. The atmosphere was intensely hot ; hotter than at Tehran. We passed through beautiful streets. It is a very handsome city, and possesses very lovely women.
We drove a long way, and at length reached the square of the Government Palace, and of the famous church (the Duomo), renowned in all the earth, which they have there erected. Such a church and such an edifice is in no other spot in the world.
Well ; we reached the palace. It is a very imposing structure, and full of effects, such as tables, chairs, bed-steads, looking-glasses, and the like. The whole of the rooms, halls, and doors, are ornamented with gildings and paintings ; in each of them beautiful stuffs and oil
paintings of merit are hung against the walls, numerous chandeliers being suspended from the ceilings.


... iarasi umbra lui Napoleon

QUOTE
This palace was built in days of old. When the first Napoleon conquered Italy and this city, he thoroughly restored and redecorated the palace, and it remained long in his possession ; for Prince Eugene for eight years ruled in this city as viceroy of Napoleon.
After that, the country and the palace fell into the hands of Austria, and for years she reigned over them. Prince Maximilian, brother of the present Emperor of Austria, who afterwards became Emperor of Mexico in the New "World, where they put him to death, was viceroy- for the Emperor of Austria over this city and province.
Since the defeat of the Austrians, they have formed a part of the kingdom of Italy.

From the summit, the ranges of the Alps and of Mount St. Bernard were visible; over which the first Napoleon led the French forces into Italy.
The railway trains, emitting their smoke, and either entering the city from every quarter, or departing therefrom, were very interesting as seen from that elevation. Two triumphal arches erected outside the city hy Napoleon on his first conquest of Italy, and a canal, a very large stream, that he caused to be constructed to convey water to the city of Pavia, were also in sight.


... inchei cu Bologna

QUOTE
Monday (11th August)
A halt was made in the city of Bologna. We breakfasted at the hotel.
In the afternoon we took a seat in a carriage with Dr. Tholozan and the Governor of Bologna, named Count Bardessone, and set out for a drive. We came to two towers, erected six hundred years ago, very large in diameter, being like square obelisks. They have steps within them, so as to be ascended, though this is attended with great danger ; for it is possible for one to be suffocated inside them from lack of air.
The one is a hundred and three ells in height (360 feet), and is somewhat out of the perpendicular. The other, not far distant, was expressly constructed by its builder to lean over in like manner, and had at first a great elevation. But, as its deviation from the plumb-line was very great, fears were entertained as to its safety, and it was partly demolished ; so that now the half only is standing.

Dr.Tholozan a fost medicul personal al shahului, dar in acelasi timp si un pretuit prieten, insotindu-l pe tot parcursul voiajului.


exergy33
... intrarea in Austria si intalnirea cu o mai veche si respectabila cunostinta smile.gif

QUOTE
At the entrance, in the jaws of this valley, the Austrian Government has constructed two strong forts, so that it is impossible for the troops of an enemy to penetrate through this pass.
They have placed many a cannon on the summit of the forts and batteries, and always are there ofiicers of trust and garrisons in these two forts.
The name of the fortress is Franzansvest. Here it was made known that it is a great distance to Saltzburg, our destination, so that, if we travel continuously, we shall reach there to-morrow afternoon.

At sunset we arrived at a station where the train was stopped for an hour, and where a dinner was prepared in a room for our attendants. I, too, alighted, and inspected the troops that were drawn out. The generals and officers in the place were presented.
M. Gersich, a professor of the science of artillery, who was formerly a professor in the College of Science at Tehran, and of whom Muhammad-Hasan Khan, son of the Commander-in-Chief, with Muhammad-Sadiq Khan Qajar, are two of the best pupils, was there received. His beard had become somewhat grizzled, but his frame was in first-rate condition.


parerile lui Nasser Din Shah despre femeile din Lintz si peisajele vazute

QUOTE
This place possessed some most beautiful women. Austria, in point of beauty and engagingness, is the queen of all lands.
[...]
Well ; when our party had breakfasted, we returned to our train and again proceeded. The appearance of the country was still the same with that above described ; perhaps more beautiful even.
We then arrived at a small town called Hammelbach, and shortly after passing it, we saw the mighty river Danube on our left hand.
Our road lay for a short distance along its bank, and then swerved to a distance. Next we reached the town of St. Polten, where, on the summit of a hill in the middle of the town, we noticed a palace, a church, and a college, of very imposing structure, and belonging to the priests.
That must be a very charming place, with a beautiful view. As we approached more and more towards
the city of Vienna, the more did we see beautiful towns, populous places, sumptuous summer-residences in the valleys and at the foot of the hills covered with forests, together with most charming sites.
The houses were of a most pleasing aspect, and lovely streams of water occurred on our road.


intalnirea cu imparatul Franz Josef

QUOTE
At about sunset we arrived at the station of Penzing, where the train stopped, His Most Exalted Majesty the Emperor of Austria being on the platform awaiting us, with the Nawwab the Heir-Apparent and the Princes, who had come out two (probably ten) leagues from town to meet us. Alighting, I gave my hand. The Emperor's name is Francis-Joseph, who is of the House of Habsburg,
and his father is still alive, bearing the name of Francis- Charles and being of the age of sixty-five.
Of the persons who were with the Emperor were the Comit de-Bellegarde and Baron Schlechta, the Persian interpreter, who spoke extremely well ; besides many other officers, and officials, high and low, with others also.

After salutation we entered the railway carriage, where I was with the Emperor, the Grand-Vazir, Mirza Malkam Khan, Baron Schlechta, Count Dubeski the Austrian Envoy to Tehran, and Count Grenneville in attendance-upon us.



o alta veche cunostinta smile.gif

QUOTE
Thursday
Rose in the morning and breakfasted. The weather was sultry to such a degree that it was impossible to go out of doors.
Dr. Polack, who was formerly Professor of Medicine at Tehran, and for several years was also our own Chief Physician, was received in audience. I was extremely gratified at seeing the Doctor. He is a nice man, has grown somewhat aged, has taken a wife, had been for a time in Egypt, and is now in Vienna.



... despre Dunare si apa potabila
QUOTE
The river Danube skirts one side of the town, and a canal therefrom, dug by hand, enters the city ; but this is very much smaller than the river Seine in Paris.
Very small steamers ply thereon. The water of this river is not fit to drink. In bygone days the inhabitants of Vienna had no (good) water to drink, and through the filthy state of the Danube that flows by the city, they were much exposed to sicknesses from using it ; but now the Emperor, at the expense of the inhabitants of the city, has dug a large canal for the snowy waters of the mountain streams and springs, which he is leading into the town.
Great expense has been incurred, and the work is not yet complete. It was said that it would be finished in another year. The population of the city of Vienna is six hundred thousand souls.



... arhitectura orientala pe meleaguri austriece
QUOTE
There was one very beautiful building, and a grandiose mosque with a tall minaret from Egypt ; also, a mansion and a coffee-shop from the Ottoman State, and one very beautiful house built by the Persian Government. With the exception of these, I did not examine those of any other country.
We went to the Persian mansion, to which were several steps to bemounted. Its builder was a certain architect of the name of Ismail, together with one carpenter. Although it was but three months that they had been commissioned to build this house, they had executed their task with great taste, and had so quickly constructed the edifice as to elicit wonder and applause. The carpenter and the builder were both present, the latter in these three months' space having learnt the German language well, which was a subject of still greater astonishment.


... pentru final am ales un somptuos spectacol vienez.
Nu se poate spune ca shahul n-ar fi avut talent de povestitor

QUOTE
It was the Grand Opera-House of Vienna, and perhaps better than those of all other places. We alighted at the door of the theatre, and the Emperor was awaiting us at the foot of the staircase. Giving our hand, we went up together. The Emperor presented several of the Lady-Princesses, as follows : The Archduchess Elisabeth, wife of Charles Ferdinand ; Marie-Eeniere, Princess de Joinville, wife of the son of Louis-Phihppe and daughter of the Sovereign of Brasil ; Princess Coburg, daughter of Louis-Philippe and wife of the Prince of Coburg.
We went into the box, and took our seat in the middle, these Lady-Princesses being to our right and left, the Grand-Vazir behind us.
The princes of Austria and Germany were all present.
In justice, it is a very noble theatre. The present Emperor has displayed in this theatre much architectural talent. It has five tiers of seats, and a lofty, spacious, handsome ceiling, together with most beautiful branches for gaslights, chandeliers, and other adornments. The audience was numerous.

The curtain rose. So beautiful a play did they perform, with dancing and music, that the like had been witnessed in no place before.
The costumes of the players were at every moment of a different shape and colour, all of rich stuffs and delicate tints. This evening there was a ballet. Each time the scene changed and the dance varied, they brought out apparatus for conjuring, with demons, genii, and fairies, in a way that set one beside himself.
The daughters of the Fary of the Night were in a green and most charming forest, the moon was declining to its setting, so that its sheen was, reflected in the water of a stream, the moon, the ripples of the water, and the forest, being all exactly like real.

A stout tree had been blown down and had fallen across the stream in guise of a bridge, and on this the fairies danced. Suddenly demons made their appearance, and the fairies vanished ; the demons danced, and genii came forth.
Then the demons disappeared and the fairies were seen again. Now suddenly this green forest and spring view was converted into a north-polar region with mountains of ice ; snow fell ; the waters of the sea brought forward pieces of ice like mountains, and again washed them away.
White polar bears, crocodiles, walruses (sea-elephants) came and went away again upon the ice.
A prince was held prisoner in this wintery scene, and was about to die, when suddenly the daughters of the pole and the fairies of the regions of frost came forth with dresses and hair white and covered with snow.
They brought forth fire from the earth, warmed the prince, and all danced together in pretty costumes, and keeping time to the music, in every air played, in a manner truty wonderful.
The prince, with his Vazir, had been made a captive in the house of a sorcerer. So many magical effects did they represent that it is not possible to describe them.

Ultimately, there was a scene that represented the bottom of the ocean. Fishes, various shells, coral flowers, seaweeds, marine flowers, the undulation of the water at the bottom of the sea, nyrmphs of ocean , each a saucy, coquettish childy flying beneath those weeds and flowers, were shown.
At one time, from within the shells and flowers, one sea nymph would come forth, most lovely ; at another, the angels of the clouds would come down and dance; sometimes they would sink into the earth, and at other times would mount into the air in a balloon or on the back of a griffin, and again come down.
The correct description cannot be written.
Although I had not dined, I did not desire it to finish.
exergy33
Am ajuns la finalul jurnalul lui Nasser al-Din Shah prin Farang (Europa).
Urmeaza Turcia, Georgia si ... din nou acasa, in acelasi port din care a plecat. Anzali.

Inainte de a da programul detaliat al acestei ultime etape si cateva pasaje preferate, vreau sa spun ca m-am bucurat mult ca i-am gasit jurnalul pe net, ca l-am putut descarca spre a-l citi, si nu in ultimul rand ma bucur ca i-am gazduit cateva pagini in spatiul virtual de la Hanul Ancutei. wub.gif
Citind jurnalul scris de acest shah al epocii qajare am inteles de ce nici dansul, si nici urmasii lui, nu au reusit sa modernizeze Iranul.
Castigul meu se rezuma in primul rand la faptul ca, desi dupa lecturarea tuturor paginilor nu am reusit sa-i vad pe qajari intr-o lumina favorabila, s-a produs totusi in mintea mea o schimbare majora de optica in ceea ce priveste relatia est-vest, monarhia persana si monarhiile europene, apogeul si decadenta ...

Neaparat trebuie sa spun ca acest jurnal a fost publicat de Nasser Din Shah sub forma de foileton, in acel ziar de care pomenisem la inceputul prezentarii, primul ziar de tip european tiparit in Persia.
A fost pentru prima oara cand un sah a vizitat Europa. Si ce vizita! ... una maraton de 139 de zile.
A fost prima oara cand un shah si-a scris impresiile de calatorie si le-a publicat undeva.
Ziarul cu pricina a fost citit de sute de mii de iranieni, milioane chiar, cei stiutori de carte citindu-l pentru cei nestiutori, citindu-l in cele mai diverse locuri : ceainarii, bai, petreceri de familie, bazar, petreceri la iarba verde, etc
Prin ochii shahului un intreg popor a putut vedea Europa, cultura, arta, eticheta, istoria si prezentul ei. Prezentul acelor clipe, bineinteles.

Acum, la finalul lecturii, pot afirma ca jurnalul in cauza a fost unul din lucrurile importante pe care le-a daruit shahul oamenilor de rand.
Succesul a fost imens. La putin timp notele de calatorie au fost traduse in franceza si engleza si au fost publicate sub forma de carte. Ceea ce ati citit pana acum reprezinta spicuiri din traducerea in limba engleza.

"The diary of H.M. the Shah of Persia, during his tour through Europe in A.D. 1873. By J.W. Redhouse. A verbatim translation"

Apoi a fost tradus si publicat in volum in alte doua limbi, olandeza si germana.
Deci se poate vorbi de un best-seller al respectivei epoci.

Aici se incheie sectiunea "jurnal in jurnal" si urmeaza ca dupa o pauza sa reiau povestitul propriile impresii de vacanta rolleyes.gif


TURKEY : 11 DAYS.
Tenedos ; Lemnos ; Dardanelles, 363 ; Gallipoli ; Sea of Marmara,
366 ; Istambul sighted ; steamers and Persians, 367 ; Princes' Islands ;
walls, 368 ; Seven Towers ; Seraglio Point, 370 ; Bosphorus ; Beyler-Beyi ;
the Sultan, 371 ; Palace of Beyler-Beyi, 372 ; Golden Horn, 37G ;
receptions, 377 ; Gyuk-Su, 378 ; breakfast at Chiragan palace,
380 ; Chamlija (erroneously called Mount Boulgourlou on the maps), 381 ;
Prince Yusuf ; Aya-Sofiya, 382 ; Persian Mission ; state banquet
at Beshik-Tash palace, 384 ; receptions ; trip to Princes' Islands, 38G ;
Sultana-Mother's vineyard, 387 ; steamers, 388 ; conflagration ; palace
of Chiragan, 389 ; gardens ; wild beasts, 390 ; bath, 391 ; conjurer,
392 ; visits of adieu, 395 ; leave for Poti, 396 ; accident to Eshref
Pasha, 397 ; Sinope ; porpoises, 398 ; birds from the land ; Trebizond;
coming storm, 399.


GEORGIA ; RETURN ; 11 DAYS.

Storm , 401 ; transhipment, 402 ; land at Poti ; Grand-Duke Michael,
403 ; Open-Heads, 404 ; railway ; Kutais, 405 ; Tiflis ; palace, 406 ;
Grand-Duchess ; theatre, 409 ; storm at Poti, 410 ; Bahman Mirza,
411 ; banquet, 412 ; Tiflis to Baku, 413 ; Ganja, 414 ; Nizami's tomb,
416 ; Kur ferry, 417 ; New Shamaka, 420 ; Shamakhi, 421 ;
Baku, 423 ; embark, 424 ; storm for three days, 425 ; land at
Enzeli, 427.


Istambul ... Constantinopole, Tzarigrad, Stambul

QUOTE
We arrived at the beginning of the habitations of the city of Istambul. On the left hand is the land of Europe ; on the right, the land of Asia. We proceeded in the vicinity of the land ofEurope. Certain steam ships, in which the foreign ambassadors were embarked to come and meet us, were observed.
The first of the habitations were some houses. Next, there commences an ancient stone wall, with towers. This is a fortress dating from the days of the Caesars. As this kind of fortifications are no longer of any use, they do not repair it ; but, since it is all of stone and very strong, the most art of it still remains standing. This wall surrounds the old city of Istambul, the whole of which is on the summits of hills, on their slopes, or in their valleys.
The habitations of the city extend the whole length of the Bosphorus ; but these have not much width ; and the great hulk and busy part of the inhabited quarters, the city and stronghold of Istambul, is within this fortress, and from hence to the old palace (at Seraglio Point), to the palace of Beshik-Tash, to the Sultan's waterside residence of Chiragan, within which are the great mosques, like those of Saint Sophia and other imperial cathedrals, the Government Offices (the Downing Street of Constantinople, the Porte - "Sublime Porte," as it is called in Europe), in which the Ministers and Councillors of State have their places of business, the Ministry of War, the Ministry of Mines and Commerce, barracks of great extent, hospitals, bazaars, caravanserais, and the like ; all are there. Beyond these, too, every part of the Bosphorus, the summits of the hills and of the mountains, are all inhabited and covered with fine houses,
mosques, and the like, as far as Buyuk-Dera (Buyouk-dereh) and Tarapiya (Therapia), which are the summer-stations of the foreign Representatives.
These, however, are detached and isolated from each other. On the right hand, again, which is the Asiatic shore, and is also called Iskyudar (Scutari), there are magnificent buildings and beautiful mosques; especially, the barracks of Selimiyya. Most splendidly built.
This side also, like other, is all hill and vale, with woods of cypress, pine, oak. Every one, too, who has a mansion and garden, plants orchards of fruit-trees, kitchen-gardens, and flower-gardens, bringing water to those gardens and trees with the greatest taste.


... in imprejurimi

QUOTE
In the afternoon we went out of the upper garden-gate (the hack or land gate) of this palace, mounted our horse, and went for a ride, as I wished to go to the top of a high hill (Chamlija), more lofty than any of the rest, and from thence enjoy a view of the city, the Bosphorus, and their environs.

We pushed on through streets, hy inhabited places, and handsome isolated houses ; and observed a beautiful house and garden belonging to the Khidiv of Egypt ; so arriving at the summit, I rode the horse of the Yaminu-'d-Dawla. I alighted on the summit of the hill, where the air was very cool. The condition of the hill, of the plants, and of the atmosphere, was very similar to that of the hills and atmosphere of Kajur- Kala, a village of Mazandaran. A tomb, with a room for a single keeper, were there, on the top of the hill, extremely small.
The keeper was there himself also.
He said that there a Pir (saintly Elder) and Dervish (voluntarily poor man) had been buried. I entered. The tomb was long. The view was most magnificent. Behind the hills to the east there is a vast plain that goes through Anatolia as far as Tehran ; perhaps, it may extend as far as China.
Mountains were visible ; but of habitations, not many were observed. Towards the west, the Sea of Marmara, five inhabited islands, together with ships that were either stopping, coming, or going, were visible. On the north side, were Biyuk-Dera and the Bosphorus. In short, it was a beautiful place


Marea Neagra smile.gif

QUOTE
This sea, which has received the name. of Black Sea, really merits it ; the name and the named fit each other.
In one's eyes it is much blacker than other seas. Yesterday, from some not distant shore, a few small and pretty birds flew off to the ship, and there perched, remaining hungry and without food. The shore has become distant, and they cannot fly to it.


lucruri interesante despre locuitorii Gruziei/Georgiei/Iveriei (Gorgesstan in limba persana)

QUOTE
We disembarked and gave our hand to the Prince.
We then went and inspected a battalion of infantry that was drawn up between the landing-place and the railway terminus. There was a multitude collected of various tribes and nationalities : Circassians, Lesghians, Armenians, Georgians, Dagistani Muslims, Open-Heads (Mingrelians ; who go bare-headed like the Blue-Coat boys of London), Franks, and others.
Tiflis region is part of the country of the Open-Heads (Mingrelia), i.e., of the Bare-Heads, and in reality they are so. The whole of the inhabitants of the Open-Head country go bare-headed. Never do the women, men, or children adopt the practice of wearing hats or caps on their heads.
The chief-town of the Open-Heads is Kutais, situated between Tiflis and Poti.


despre Tbilisi cateva cuvinte

QUOTE
The town of Tiflis is in a valley and is surrounded by mountains, with some of its houses on the flanks and summit of a hill.
The river Kur (the ancient Cyrus) flows through the town, but its water was not veryabundant at that season. A bridge has been built across it.
To the north of the stream is the new town and the Frank quarters, wherein also are the palaces of the Viceroy and of the Governor. On the south side is the old town of Tiflis, and, on the summit of a hill, the ruins of the ancient fortress of the Sovereigns of Georgia.
Fifty years ago, Tiflis town was very wretched and filthy ; now, by degrees, private houses and public buildings, schools and colleges, broad streets leaved with stone, are being constructed. The peak of Mount Qaf (Caucasus), which the Franks name Kazbek, is visible. This is a very lofty mountain, covered with snow.
The Russians have made a road for carriages, so that now they cross the mountains to the other side in coaches, the town of Vladi-Kaukas being there, and the land route to Moscow and Hajji-Tarkhan.
Immediately around Tiflis the mountains are bare, but further away from the town they are wooded. The air of the place is not healthy, being very hot and variable in the summer and autumn. When rain falls in the neighbourhood, or in the town, it becomes exceedingly chill, and then returns to a sultry heat again.
Its climate is therefore a source of fevers and agues.
The population of the town is fifty thousand ; for the most part foreigners and strangers, a mixture of all nationalities Persians, Georgians, Russians, Dagistanis, Circassians, Germans, Armenians. It has excellent fruits ; such as water-melons, grapes, pears, cucumbers.


... shahul a trebuit sa stea trei zile in larg, la doi kilometri de port, pentru ca marea din zona Anzali era ravasita de furtuna smile.gif
Redau in intregime ultima pagina de jurnal.

QUOTE
Well ; we reached the anchorage, and the man-of-war with great difficulty fired a few guns. The tower of Enzeli and the people on the beach were all visible ; but, as large ships cannot go closer in, and enter into Enzeli itself, it was a matter of necessity for lighters and our own small steam-yacht to come out and carry us in.

With this storm, that was not practicable ; and we therefore despondingly left the deck of the steamer, where we could no longer stand upright, went into our cabin, took off our state clothes, and resigning ourselves to God's decree, sat down.
The others, who had put on all their orders, in like manner threw off their finery in the midst of heavings and vomitings, casting themselves down in the first corner, from whence they had no power-to move.

It was now two hours to sunset, and heavy rain began to pour. The waves rose so that one could not bear to look at them, and the ship rolled to that degree that the yard-arms touched the water each way.
The sea broke over the vessel, and she heeled over so fearfully that we thought she would capsize and shoot us all overboard. At each roll, the chairs, tables, and other furniture of the cabin were upset with frightful clatter ; and the hull of the ship, with straining, groaned again.
Little did it want for her to go to pieces. Thus- with fierce rain from above, and a raging sea below, the ship became full of water; and it was impossible to walk about, by reason of her violent movements, and also because the blanks were so wet that one's feet slipped, and could not retain their hold.

Such is the end of our tour in Europe !
To be so near home for our tower of Enzeli to be within sight, at a distance to be measured by feet, and for one to be in this condition !

Should this go on for three days, we shall surely drag our anchor, and then there is no port except at Langaran !
All these servants and others who have come to Enzeli, what will they do?
Such were our thoughts ; and so nmch bitterness did they engender that I cannot describe it. I also felt indisposed ; I perspired from agitation and the heat ; the wind struck to my chest, and I coughed.

Neither was there a chance of sleeping, by night or by day, by reason of the storm.
The rain was unceasing.

Saturday {6th September).
In the morning the storm and motion of the ship were as before, or even worse. The other ship with the princes on board had also come in after us and anchored. So things went on the whole day clouds, rain, storm.
I slept about two hours. Suddenly a cry was raised that a boat had come alongside. I rose and saw her with twelve men who had undertaken to come out and obtain tidings of us.
The sea also was a little less agitated, and we were somewhat calmed.
The Mu'tamad wrote an answer to the missive that had been addressed to him. In another hour it
being now dawn of the 7th September, a second boat came alongside, into which Mahdi-quli Khan and Mirza 'Abdu-'l-'lah cast themselves and went away.

Morning broke, and other lighters came. Some more of our people got away in them. The weather was inclining to become fair and the water of the lagoon had begun to flow into the sea.

At length our steam-yacht came in sight, paddling out of the lagoon. She came near ; but it was still difficult to get from one vessel to the other, as they kept her somewhat at a distance. They then brought our barge alongside, and somehow or other I got into her, pulled to the yacht, and there I was hauled on board by hand.
Once on deck, I felt safe ; and immediately offering up my thanks to the Creator, whose name be glorified, arrived at Enzeli.
Those who had come from Tehran were admitted to an audience ; after which we went to our tower, mounted to our apartments, and there again poured out our heart in thanks to God.

At night there was a general illumination, and we slept in peace.
Praise be unto God Most High !


smile.gif final
exergy33

M-am dus si m-am tot dus ... smile.gif
Marduk
smile.gif
exergy33
Copii, gata, s-a terminat vacanta!
E cazul sa reincepem lectiile smile.gif .
Incepusem sa povestesc despre Palatul Golestan din Teheran si cred ca ramasesem datoare cu niste mozaicuri ...
http://www.hanuancutei.com/forum/index.php...st&p=714998


E vorba de mozaicurile figurative de pe peretii exteriori ai palatului. Ne-am obisnuit sa vedem mozaicuri orientale cu arabescuri, motive vegetale sau reprezentari stilizate si de aceea, si nu numai, mozaicurile figurative de la Golestan fac nota discordanta cu ceea ce am vazut anterior.



foto25
http://www.4shared.com/photo/ux4N6WXd/golestan25.html


Pentru azi am ales Chador Khane(h, de fapt un demisol ce pe vremea qajarilor servea drept magazie.
In limba persana cuvantul "chador" poate insemna cort dar si poate insemna si acel val negru pe care il imbraca femeile traditionaliste din lumea islamica.
In cazul de fata are sensul de cort. Deci Chador Khaneh s-ar putea traduce prin Casa Corturilor caci aici erau tinute si reparate corturile necesare in campaniile militare.
Usa principala e pazita, la figurat, de doi soldati, dupa cum se poate vedea si in foto26 ... insa eu nu l-am surprins decat pe unul.


... ...
foto26 ..............................................foto27 ......................................... foto28

Peretii magaziei/pivnitei au fost decorati cu mozaicuri ce mie personal mi se par un soi de 'pictura naiva' sau pictura de balci.
Scene de vanatoare, imagini cu soldatii epocii, dar si scene mitologice din istoria preislamica a Iranului, acopera peretii din aripa unde candva erau depozitate alimentele si diverse alte echipamente, nu pusti si munitie (foto27 si foto28).

Cel mai fotografiat tronson e cel denumit Tronsonul Gornistilor sau Tronsonul Trompetasilor, acum in lucrari avansate de restaurare. Se observa dealtfel schelele.
Am vazut multi turisti, in special copii, ce se pozau langa gornisti.

Totusi nu pot sa inchei fara sa atrag atentia asupra uniformei lor, vadit europeana, si sa nu reamintesc faptul ca inca inainte de 1800, inspirandu-se din vestimentatia ofiterilor si soldatilor Rusiei tariste, shahii qajari au trecut la modernizarea uniformei soldatilor.
Istoricii spun ca dupa introducerea noilor uniforme s-a produs o schimbare radicala in portul barbatilor tineri de la oras care, si nu-i de mirare rolleyes.gif , au adoptat pantalonii cu noua croiala, vestele si hainele din Farang.
Calatorii europeni de pe la inceputul anilor 1800, venind dinspre tinuturile Imperiului Otoman, din Egipt sau din India, au ramas profund surprinsi de aerul vestic al persanilor.

Cateva decenii mai tarziu vestimentatia a fost adoptata si in satele din partea nord, nord-vestica, vestica si din zona centrala a Iranului, bineinteles cu unele retusuri de rigoare.
dascalita
Instructiv si frumos! Multumim pentru fumusetile ce ni le arati si care multora din noi ne sunt inaccesibile!
exergy33
@dascalita mwah1.gif

Un mozaic de pe fatada Palatului Golestan reda lupta dintre Rostam si Sohrab, doua personaje din perioada Iranului mitologic, adica din perioada de dinaintea primelor dinastii consemnate in istoria Persiei antice.
Multi afirma ca ar fi vorba de caractere imaginare insa marele poet Ferdowsi le-a daruit credibilitate, celebritate si nemurire in unica sa cronica a regilor.
Cronica Regilor, Shah Nameh in persana, abunda in povestiri inedite. Una o reprezinta cea a lui Rostam si Sohrab.

A fost o data ca niciodata, ar fi spus Petre Ispirescu sau Ion Creanga unsure.gif , insa Ferdowsi spune ca a fost odata un mare rege pe nume Kay Kavous ce domnea in Iran. In armata regelui se gasea un luptator extraordinar pe nume Rostam, fiul lui Zal si Rudabeh.
Dar Iranul purta lupte cu tinutul Turanului. Tinutul Turanului corespunde geografic cu aria Asiei Centrale iar numele Turan ar insemna Taramul lui Tur/Turaj sau Tinutul lui Tur.
Rostam ajunge in Turan si in timp ce este inspectat de garzile regelui Turanului o zareste pe printesa Tahmineh din Samangam (oras situat in actuala provincie Khorasan din Iran) de care se indragosteste la prima vedere.
Se va casatori cu printesa insa dupa un timp va pleca lasand-o singura si insarcinata, promitandu-i insa ca se va intoarce. Ii daruieste un medalion, un fel de amuleta, pe care o roaga sa o puna la gatul copilului atunci cand se va naste.
Printesa Tahmineh da nastere unui baiat pe care il numeste Sohrab. Baiatul va mosteni calitatile si conditia fizica a tatalui devenind cel mai de temut luptator din oastea Turanului.

Fac o paranteza pentru a spune ca numele Turan nu are nici o legatura cu numele populatiilor turcice ce au invadat ulterior zona, in perioada islamica.
Turanienii, la fel ca cei din tinutul Iranului, erau arieni. Numele Tur sau Turaj are la origine numele Tuzh din persana mediana.

Rostam nu se va intoarce niciodata la Tahmineh insa peste multi ani, aproximativ douazeci, va avea loc din nou o ciocnire intre aceste doua tinuturi vecine : Iran si Turan.



Dupa uzantele timpului, armata invadatoare (in acest caz cea a iranienilor) alegea pe cel mai bun luptator pentru a lupta cu cel mai viteaz ostean din tinutul pe care urma sa-l atace. In caz ca luptatorul din tara atacata castiga lupta, atacatorii se considerau invinsi si isi retrageau armatele.

Din partea tinutului Iranului a fost ales Rostam. La auzul acestei vesti nimeni din armata Turanului nu s-a incumetat sa lupte. Sohrab a fost de acord sa lupte insa cu conditia ca sa nu i se dezvaluie lui Rostam numele lui si faptul ca e fiul printesei Tahmineh, caci Sohrab stia ca Rostam ii e tata.

Pe campul de lupta, inainte de incrucisarea paloselor, Sohrab ii marturiseste lui Rostam ca nimeni din Turan nu e la nivelul de a se lupta cu dansul iar faptul ca el indrazneste sa vina pe campul de lupta nu trebuie considerat un act de disconsiderare fata de marele ostean ce se transformase intr-o legenda vie printre locuitorii ambelor tari ci o onoare careia va incerca sa-i faca fata.

In sfarsit, lupta incepe in zori si tine pana la asfintit. Desi mult mai tanar, insa fara experienta necesara, Sohrab oboseste si nu mai poate contracara atacurilor lui Rostam, tatal sau.
In acest rastimp Tahmineh vine in goana din tinutul unde isi avea palatul pentru a impiedica cu orice pret incrucisarea de arme dintre tata si fiu.
Dar ca in toate tragediile ea va ajunge prea tarziu pentru a-l atentiona pe Rostam ca il are in fata pe propiul sau fiu.

In ultimele momente ale luptei, chiar in momentul in care il raneste mortal pe Sohrab, Rostam observa amuleta ce iesise afara de sub zalele si imbracamintea sfasiata.
Lovitura de gratie fusese data. Fiul ii va muri in brate iar Tahmineh, sotia pe care n-o mai vazuse din luna de miere, va lua trupul neinsufletit al unicului lor fiu pentru a-l ingropa.

Povestea lui Rostam si Sohrab reprezinta una din povestile predilecte ale batranilor povestitori din ceainarii sau Kava Khane/Kahveh Khane ...

M-am uitat cu atentie la scena mozaicata, analizand amanuntele legate de costumatia celor doi, si totodata am incercat sa reconstitui aievea lupta. Pentru cateva minute am fost regizorul, scenograful, scenaristul si directorul de sunet al unui film imaginar care, va asigur cu mana pe inima, mi-a iesit nesperat de bine smile.gif ...
exergy33
Tot in categoria reprezentarilor figurative s-ar incadra si mozaicurile din incinta cu piatra funerara a lui Nasser din Shah.
Pe mine ma amuza faptul ca turistii straini le fotografiaza asiduu pe cele doua femei cu decolteuri generoase desi din punct de vedere artistic mozaicul respectiv nu reprezinta cine stie ce valoare.

De fiecare data, in ciuda faptului ca mi-am propus sa iau cateva prim-planuri cu doamnele in cauza, am uitat.





Influentele europene, un 'ceva' frantuzesc amestecat cu un 'ceva' vienez, isi fac simtite prezenta.
Nu as putea spune exact despre ce e vorba. E mai mult o impresie care se leaga de unele imagini ce vin tiptil din copilarie.


..... .....
foto29 ......................................................... foto30 .................................... foto 31


O vad pe bunica cum pune pe masa zaharnita din portelan pictat. Tanara doamna invesmantata in rochie dantelata, grena, pluteste parca deasupra a doua cuvinte gotice.
Atunci nu am fost curioasa sa stiu ce scria pe zaharnita. Tot ce-mi amintesc e faptul ca al doilea cuvant incepea cu litera "Z" ...

Zeit, Zimmer, Zitrone, ...? unsure.gif
exergy33
O imagine cu un fost corp administrativ, cladire care la ora actuala, la etaj, parter si subsol, adaposteste mai multe saloane si muzee. Rand pe rand voi vorbi despre ele.



De fapt e vorba de principalul corp administrativ al fostilor inalti oficiali qajari ce a fost ulterior transformat in 'piesa' de rezistenta a Complexului Muzeal al Palatului Golestan din Teheran.
exergy33
... ...
foto32 ................................................foto33 ...................................foto34

Fatada mozaicata a cladirii se inscrie estetic in stilul ce caracterizeaza Palatul Golestan, deci nu voi posta prim-planuri ale peretilor exteriori.
Ma voi opri insa sub tavanul de la intrare, sculptat parca intr-o glucoza moale, si voi admira geometria lui.



Usa dubla de la intrare e pazita de doi lei, arhicunoscutul simbol al persilor ahemenizi. Acest simbol e mult mai vechi iar artefactele perioadei pre-ahemenide descoperite de arheologi pe tot intinsul Persiei o dovedesc din plin.

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foto35 .........................................foto36

Includ aceste doua imagini deoarece exact in fata usii cu lei i-am auzit pe doi turisti germani discutand aprins si din ceea ce ziceau am dedus ca ar fi vorba de niste simboluri ale francmasonilor
Am fotografiat peretele si usa ... dar nici in ruptul capului nu-mi dau seama unde ar putea fi ascuns vreun simbol francmasonic sorry.gif ..
Poate ma ajuta cineva smile.gif .
Marduk
Poate sa fie floarea cu 5 petale, vasul in forma de inima etc. exista site-uri cu aceste simboluri le poti cauta acolo
exergy33

Nu mai am timp nici sa ma gandesc la mine ... sunt intr-o fuga continua de ici colo.
Mi-e dor sa citesc in liniste o carte buna wub.gif
exergy33
In acest fost corp administrativ se gasesc cateva saloane sclipitoare care acum nu mai indeplinesc functii de protocol, fiind transformate in spatii muzeale.
Alte incaperi mai putin luxoase au fost transformate deasemeni in muzeu.
Fotografiatul e total interzis in cladirea respectiva ... si cu toate astea am reusit in cateva randuri sa insel vigilenta personalului si pe cea a camerelor video, fara sa fiu descoperita ... asa ca voi reveni cu cateva imagini personale.

Dar sa prezint principalele puncte de atractie smile.gif
Daca veti da click pe linkuri veti putea vedea on line panorama respectivului salon. Sper sa functioneze desi cu siturile astea iraniene nu se stie niciodata.

Cel mai important e Talar-e Salam, adica Salonul de Receptie, care pe timpul lui Nasser al-Din Shah adapostea acel faimos tron din aur masiv, in forma de paun, impodopit cu kilograme de diamante si alte pietre scumpe.
Tronul avea un nume : Takhte Tavous (Peacock Throne).
La ora actuala tronul se afla in posesia Trezoreriei Nationale.
http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-vir.../E-salam-v.htmZ

Alt salon cu pretentii il reprezinta Talar-e Zorouf, adica Salonul cu Vase. Aici sunt expuse cateva piese mai deosebite din portelan, impodobite cu briliante si pietre semipretioase, primite din partea unor monarhi europeni, cum ar fi de exemplu vasul facut cadou de regina Victoria a Angliei.
http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-vir.../E-zoroof-v.htm

Talar-e Adj, adica Salonul de Fildes, e locul in care pot fi vazute cadourile primite de Nasser Din Shah din partea regilor, printilor si aristocratilor europeni.
Pe vremea lui acest Salon se numea Sofreh-Khaneh ... un fel de sufragerie mai speciala.
Interesant e faptul ca dansul, inca din timpul vietii, a ordonat transformarea salonului in muzeu pentru a da posibilitatea ca cei veniti cu treburi la palat sa poata admira obiectele de arta europeana : tablouri, statuete, orologii si ceasuri, mici piese de mobilier, candelabre ... dar si obiecte tehnice cu folosinta imediata : busole, binocluri, truse de barbierit, pistoale, tabachere, pipe, bastoane, obiecte de cancelarie, ...
http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-virtual/E-adj-v.htm
exergy33
O alta incapere a cladirii administrative, ce in trecut fusese destinata birourilor ofiterilor si corpului de garda ce asigura paza palatului, a fost transformata in muzeu, primind numele de Negar Khaneh.
In limba persana 'negar', 'negaresh' inseamna a pastra, a conserva, a avea grija.

Dupa cum spuneam anterior, in toata cladirea, chiar si pe coridoarele simple fara exponate, fotografiatul e interzis. Totusi am reusit sa fac pe ascuns cinci fotografii smile.gif din care acestea doua postate acum mi-au iesit cel mai bine. Restul au luat destinatia "trash".

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foto37 .................................................... foto38

Pentru o panorama a muzeului dati click aici :
http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-virtual/E-negar-v.htm

Ideea de a infiinta un muzeu cu piese de arta europene si autohtone a fost una din dorintele lui Nasser al-Din Shah, dorinta generata in mod direct de impactul cultural suferit in cea de-a doua vizita maraton prin Europa.
Muzeul, in forma in care il vedem azi, a fost pus la punct insa dupa revolutia islamica din 1979.




In acest muzeu sunt expuse exclusiv exponate de arta iraniana/persana, exclusiv cele din epoca qajara. Toti artistii importanti ai epocii sunt reprezentati in muzeu.

Mie picturile si miniaturile epocii qajare imi provoaca un disconfort, nu doar vizual, ce uneori marge mai departe, transformandu-se intr-o stare de nervozitate. Nu agreez deloc acest gen de arta si cu toate astea am cateva miniaturi preferate ... wub.gif
Traiesc cu impresia ca artistii epocii au masculinizat personajele feminine, uratindu-le, si au feminizat peste masura portretele masculine, in special cele ale tinerilor. Ambiguitatea sexuala a reprezentarilor figurative e mai greu de 'digerat' de catre unii.

Dar ca sa nu fiu rautacioasa trebuie sa spun ca tablourile pictate pe panouri din lemn si miniaturile de la Palatul Golestan sunt relativ acceptabile in comparatie cu cele de la Palatul Niavaran. La Niavaran pot fi vazute printese qajare carora le mijeste mustata si baieti cu ochii 'incondeiati' si buzele facute cu carmin.

Nu zic nu, acesta o fi fost stilul artistic al epocii, dar de mine nu se lipeste deloc ... si unde mai pui ca in interiorul Iranului se fac tranzactii de zeci de mii de dolari cu miniaturile dansatoarelor si cantaretelor qajare.

Atentie! Personajele din fotografiile pictate, ca de altfel si restul exponatelor de la Negar Khaneh, sunt barbati sau tineri baieti.
In ultima vizita am remarcat un fapt ce m-a surprins : in cateva tablouri iese la iveala 'un ceva' de icoana bizantina!
exergy33
Am o intrebare.
Poate ma ajuta cineva sa-i gasesc raspunsul unsure.gif .
Gordin
link1

link2
exergy33
@Gordin
Rath-Vegh_Istvan_-_Istoria_culturala_a_prostiei_omenesti

exergy33
Howz Khaneh, adica Casa cu Havuz, reprezinta de fapt o incapere de mari dimensiuni de la subsolul fostei cladiri administrative, incapere acum transformata in muzeu.
La ora actuala aici sunt expuse opere de arta europeana, mare parte din ele portrete de monarhi si oameni politici europeni ce au daruit respectivele tablouri lui Nasser din Shah.
Panorama muzeului:
http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-virtual/E-howz-v.htm

Ce rol avea havuzul amplasat in subsolul resedintei, va veti intreba poate ... unsure.gif

Ei bine, havuzul si "turnurile care prindeau vantul" (Bad Ghir) reprezentau componentele principale ale "sistemului de aer conditionat traditional persan/iranian".
Aerul era circulat prin subsolul racit de havuz dupa care era dirijat in restul incaperilor.
Dupa un timp apa havuzului se incalzea. In acel moment, prin intermediul unor canale in panta, apa era trimisa in parcul sau gradina respectivei resedinte. Havuzul era umplut din nou cu apa rece si proaspata din fantanile de mare adancime special sapate in incinta resedintei.
Bineinteles ca acum, in palatul Golestan, sistemul nu e functional deoarece umiditatea ar deteriora exponatele, insa in alte locuri, cum ar fi resedinta Guvernatorului din Yazd, resedintele Tabatabaei, Burujerdi, Amerian si Abbasian din Kashan, sau palatul Ali Qapu din Isfahan, poate fi studiat la fata locului sistemul de functionare.

Ma voi desparti de aceasta cladire amintind numele unui salon pe care l-am declarat 'imposibil'. E vorba de Talar-e Berelian, sau mai pe intelesul tuturor Salonul de Briliant, batut din podea si pana in tavan cu oglinzi si lucratura sofisticata in aschii de oglinzi.

http://www.golestanpalace.ir/en_site/E-vir...-briliant-v.htm

Mie saloanele de genul acesta imi provoaca rau fizic.
Prefer o constructie sanatoasa, ca de exemplu un han din piatra si barne din lemn, cu mese grosier geluite, pe care sa troneze niste ulcele din lut pline ochi cu un vin negru si parfumat.
... ca tot e toamna smile.gif



exergy33
... ...
foto39 .................................................foto40.........................
...........foto41


Palatul Golestan pastreaza destule elemente din arhitectura Persiei medievale, elemente specifice resedintelor situate in zonele calde sau aride.
Acelasi stil in realizarea ferestrelor inalte 'umbrite' de ziduri protectoare (antisolare?) am vazut pentru prima oara la Yazd. (foto40)



Am adaugat cateva imagini din curtea palatului, la fatade ma refer, pentru a readuce im memoria cititorilor acestui jurnal specificul mozaicurilor de la Golestan.
In postarile urmatoare ma voi ocupa ceva mai serios de cromatica peretilor din pavilioanele neprezentate pana acum.
exergy33
Nu pot continua firul jurnalului fara sa amintesc un episod din prima mea vizita la Palatul Golestan.

Era un miez de vara tarzie si copacii explodasera in galben pe alocuri. La fiecare adiere de vant se simtea toamna in aer. Parcul palatului fusese transformat intr-un veritabil santier. Totul se renova: havuzul principal, havuzurile secundare, aleile, plus o serie de incaperi.

Orbita de luminile reflectate de lucratura in aschii de oglinzi a saloanelor care pareau ca nu se mai termina (Salonul de Briliant, Salonul de Diamant, Salonul Oglinzilor, Emarat-e Bad Ghir, Aks Khane, Salonul de Protocol...) am iesit in curtea interioara cautand cu privirea in gradina palatului pentru a gasi un loc unde se putea sta. Un loc fara saci de ciment, schele, roabe, furtunuri, sarme si cutii cu vopsele.

Am gasit o banca intr-un colt. M-am asezat pentru cateva minute. M-am uitat la fotografiile pe care reusisem sa le fac, acolo unde mi se permisese, declarandu-ma nemultumita de felul cum au iesit.

Un grup de coreeni, in mare parte femei tinere, grasute si guralive, insotite de un ghid tanar iranian, dar care dadea explicatii in limba coreana, a trecut la cinci pasi de mine. Vreo trei patru barbati coreeni ce semanau intre ei ca niste picaturi de apa, si un baiat obez, faceau parte si dansii din acel grup.
Printre cuvintele straine spuse de ghid am identificat doua in limba persana : Takhte Marmar. Adica Tronul de Marmura.

Dandu-mi seama ca se pregateau sa viziteze Sala Tronului, m-am lua dupa dansii.
Pana sa ajungem la sala Tronului, nevoiti fiind sa ocolim lucrarile de santier, am intrat intr-o alta incapere unde fotografiatul era interzis. De fapt o interdictie grafica pusa exact deasupra usii mi-a taiat tot elanul de 'artist fotograf'.

Coreencele nu observasera interdictia si fotografiau de zor. Un tip din corpul de paza, agitat si nervos, striga cat il tinea gura in persana : "na ghir, na ghir? " (nu prinde, nu prinde ... cu sensul de "nu capta", "nu fotografia"), de parca strainii l-ar fi inteles. Nervos ca nimeni nu-l lua in seama a tras poseta de pe umarul unei doamne. Aceasta speriata s-a intor brusc dupa care sa facut doi pasi inapoi de parca paznicul s-ar fi pregatit sa o atace.
Nepoliticos de-a dreptul individul. Nu si-a cerut nici un fel de scuze.

Foarte nervos, plin de functia importanta pe care credea ca o avea, a inceput sa se certe cu ghidul grupului.
In rumoarea iscata, profitand de neatentia lui, am fotografiat cate ceva de pe acolo fara sa realizez faptul ca incaperea e intesata de camere video.

O tipa, probabil cu studii ceva mai multe, mi-a zis sa sterg ce am fotografiat. In caz contrar, bineinteles dupa ce va suna dumneaei la poarta, mi se va confisca aparatul.

Nu am avut incotro asa ca am sters cele trei-patru fotografii.

Momentul tensionat trecuse si ne indreptam agale spre sala tronului. Si acolo fotografiatul era interzis. In plus de asta frescele de pe pereti erau acoperite de schele si panze. Deziluzionata de faptul ca venisem degeaba am incercat sa retin cat mai mult din ceea ce vedeam. Oricum, in memorie aveam suficient spatiu disponibil pentru stocarea informatiilor vizuale.
Baiatul cel obez era fascinat de vitralii si de sculpturile in marmura ale tronului.
Privirile ni s-au intalnit de cateva ori. Mi-a zambit si mi-a aratat aparatul foto de la gat dupa care si-a incrucisat mainile pe piept, ca si cum ar fi fost incatusate.

Eu am ras si, tot printr-un limbaj surdo-mut, i-am spus ca nu avem ce face si trebuie sa ne conformam.

Dupa terminarea explicatiilor, din care n-am inteles o iota, am iesit afara.
Coreenii descoperisera o cafenea in incinta si plecasera sa bea un ness sau o cafea cu lapte.

M-am asezat pe bordura nestiind daca are rost sa-mi continui vizita prin palatul transformat in santier.

Am auzit zgomot de pasi pe prundisul marunt. Cand am intors capul l-am vazut pe baiatul obez cu doua pahare in mana. Crema de banane cu frisca. Am inteles ca unul era pentru mine.
Privindu-l de foarte aproape nu-mi puteam da seama de varsta lui. Desi cu un corp masiv avea o fata de copil, cu ochii subtiri ca doua taieturi de briceag.
Mi-a facut din ochi, vorba vine din ochi, dar mi-am dat seama dupa contractia muschilor fetii.

Intr-o engleza cu un puternic accent coreean m-a facut sa inteleg ca a descoperit un loc pe unde putem patrunde in capatul salii tronului si de acolo am putea filma si fotografia toata incaperea.

Onorata de faptul ca-mi impartasea un asa mare secret smile.gif , am mers impreuna cu el sa vad despre ce-i vorba. O latura a palatului, aflata in restaurare, era acoperita de sus pana jos cu prelata. Intr-un loc insa prelata se desfacuse suficient de mult pentru a ne putea strecura inauntru .... chiar si baiatul obez.

Am intrat in semiintuneric si printr-un coridor de la subsol am ajuns exact in capatul salii tronului. De acolo si pana la treptele ce faceau intrarea in sala fusese asezata o scandura lunga, pe care, probabil, paseau zidarii. Sub scandura am zarit o groapa noroioasa adanca de vreun metru si mai bine.

Coreanul mi-a facut semn sa merg pe scandura, sa ma apropii de treptele salii, si sa fotografiez.
Derutata de situatie am ezitat un moment. El si-a scos aparatul de filmat de la gat si mi-a cerut sa-i filmez de jur imprejur caci, la greutatea lui, nu are curaj sa mearga pe scandura fragila.

I-am luat aparatul, ce mi s-a parut mai usor decat aparatul meu desi avea un volum mai mare, si am filmat incet facand zoom pe ceea ce mi se paruse mai interesant.

M-am intors si i l-am dat. Mi-a facut semn sa merg sa filmez si sa fotografiez pentru mine.

Am scos aparatul foto din buzunar, zicand ca e mai bine ca sa captez cateva imagini statice, dupa care voi avea mai mult timp pentru filmat.

Bajbaind prin semiintuneric m-am ghemuit pe scandura si am fixat in obiectiv vitraliul din fata prin care intra lumina cruda a soarelui.

Nu stiu ce-a fost in mintea mea in acel moment. Probabil ca-mi intrase IQ-ul sub radical.
De abia dupa ce am apasat pe declansator mi-am dat seama de catastrofa.
Uitasem sa setez aparatul pe 'no flash'. Lumina blitzului a fost multiplicata de sutele de cioburi de oglinzi ... si mai mult ca sigur camerele de luat vederi identificasera de unde venea flashul.

Coreanul si-a incruntat sprancele. Cu viteza luminii a scos memory-stickul din aparatul lui si l-a bagat nu stiu cum in gulerul de la camasa. Probabil ca gulerul de la camasa aceea fusese 'desenat' si pentru alte scopuri.

Spasita asteptam sa apara cineva din corpul de paza ca sa ma ia la intrebari.
In doua minute si-a facut aparitia chiar paznicul care se certase cu ghidul coreenilor.
Cred ca avea ceva cu coreenii, poate si din cauza meciurilor de calificare pentru campionatul mondial sau cel asiatic de fotbal, si de aceea a sarit cu gura pe baiatul coreean.

S-a intors spre mine si mi-a zis ca impreuna cu "baiatul Khikki/Hikki" tebuie sa mergem la serviciul de securitate sa dam explicatii cum am ajuns in acel loc interzis vizitatorilor.
In limba persana Khikki e un cuvant prin care sunt desemnati obezii, in special copiii obezi.

La auzul cuvantului Khikki coreanul a reactionat violent spunand in engleza ca el nu e khook/hook. Tipul intelesese gresit si isi inchipuia ca paznicul il facuse porc. In limba persana khook inseamna porc.

Nervos, crezand ca fusese jignit, baiatul a facut stanga-mprejur sa-l gaseasca pe ghidul lor.
Speriat paznicul a inceput sa ma roage sa-i explic coreanului ca a inteles gresit.
M-am uitat la paznic cu o privire de laser si mi-am zis in gand : "lasa, am sa te invat minte sa te dai grande cu turistii."

Ghidul grupului a sosit si rosu la fata a inceput sa se certe cu paznicul spunand ca e inadmisibil ca un iranian sa se exprime in asa fel fata de musafirii veniti sa-i viziteze tara.
Paznicul se jura ca nu-l facuse pe coreean porc ... ca baiatul intelesese gresit ... si ma lua pe mine drept martora ca sa-i confirm spusele.

Ghidul m-a intrebat in persana cum a decurs schimbul de replici.
Desi ar fi trebuit sa spun adevarul eu m-am prefacut ca nu inteleg limba persana.

Exasperat paznicul m-ar fi luat la palme caci stia ca vorbesc persana si ca in urma cu doar o junmatate de ora 'conversasem' intr-o alta incapere a palatului.

Coreenii s-au strans vociferand in jurul nostru. Au sosit alti doi din corpul de paza, probabil cu ceva functii, si au inceput sa-l certe pe paznic in limba azera.
"Deci toti trei sunt turci azeri!", am concluzionat imediat, si am inteles de unde si purtarea grosolana a paznicului fata de doamna coreeanca.

Ghidul, desi tanar, era foarte infipt. Le-a spus respectivilor ca grupul cau care a venit e compus din rudele functionarilor de la ambasada sud-coreeana iar doamna careia paznicul ii zmulsese pur si simplu poseta de pe umar ca sa nu fotografieze e sora reprezentantului Coreii de Sud pe probleme economice.

Nici ca se putea mai bine.
Speriati de-a binelea ca nu cumva incidentul sa degenereze in 'politic', respectivii trei au inceput sa toarne scuzele cu galeata.

Baiatul obez ii privea cu greata. Ciudat ca dupa atata timp imi amintesc perfect fata lui neteda, fara macar un fir de par, si gura stransa intr-o grimasa ce-i uratea chipul de copil

"Khokhaye kasif" (porci murdari)... a zis incet in cea mai curata limba persana, fara nici o urma de accent strain.

Privirile ni s-au intalnit din nou si el a zambit.

Ma pacalise si pe mine. rolleyes.gif Isi daduse seama ca paznicul nu-l facuse porc dar inscenase totul pentru a o razbuna pe compatrioata lui.
( probabil ca khook si khook-e kasif reprezentau cele cateva cuvinte invatate de dansul de pe siturile cu injuraturi in persana )
Gordin
Multumesc.
exergy33
... ... ...
foto42..................................... foto43 .....................................foto44............................foto45



Deci iata si turnurile de ventilatie ce deserveau Palatul Golestan pe vremea lui Nasser al-Din Shah.
Despre principiul de functionare am vorbit anterior. Acum va invit sa admirati motivele geometrice ale acestor 'obiecte tehnice' plasate in spatele palatului.
Se vede ca pe vremea aceea oamenii aveau altfel de inclinatii artistice fata de cum le au cei din ziua de azi.



Turnurile de ventilatie, cazanele de aburi din bai, canalele pentru apele menajere, toate 'auxiliarele' acestea au fost decorate de persani cu maximum de atentie.

Din pacate am avut o surpriza neplacuta.
In gradina din spatele palatului, in apropierea turnurilor, se gasesc cele mai frumoase mozaicuri din tot complexul, o combinatie de un albastru extrem de inchis si albastru turcoaz.
Ma rog. Eu le consider cele mai frumoase.
Surpriza neplacuta a constat-o grilajul metalic ce oprea accesul spre locul cu pricina.
Am incercat sa intru pe oriunde imi aduceam aminte ca s-ar putea patrunde in gradina din spate.
Rezultat nul. Peste tot grilaje.

Exasperata de situatie am intrebat-o pe una din ghidele de acolo de ce s-a restrictionat accesul in acea parte a complexului tinand cont de faptul ca mozaicurile din gradina secundara, uneori de dimensiunea unui covor (3x4)m2, reprezinta niste unicate.

Raspuns ? rolleyes.gif ... pentru a-i impiedica pe unii vizitatori sa fumeze tigari in spatiul dintre turnuri si portalele cu mozaicuri.
Dupa spusele ei, la sfarsit de saptamana personalul de la spatiile verzi adunau mucurile cu farasul ...

In sfarsit, inteleg grija pentru monumente, dar nu inteleg de ce se apeleaza la solutii tampite pentru a rezolva probleme relativ simple.

Deci ceea ce am reusit sa fotografiez a fost fie cocotata pe vreun grilaj, fie strecurandu-mi aparatul printre gratii. Mare lucru ca n-am facut o entorsa la incheietura mainii stangi, caci cu dreapta trebuia sa-mi asigur un punct de reazem si echilibru.

Asta e. Vorba proverbului : De unde nu este nici Dumnezeu nu cere smile.gif .
exergy33
......

foto46 ............................................ foto47 ................................ foto48


Pentru cei veniti pe cont propriu sa viziteze Palatul Golestan din Teheran, sau pentru cei neinsotiti de o persoana cat de cat avizata, aceste ferestre mici de la nivelul solului ar putea trece neobservate. Neobservate in sensul ca utilitatea lor e mai greu de ghicit desi e foarte probabil ca ochiul sa fie atras de mozaicurile multicolore ce le incadreaza.

Ferestruicile in cauza reprezinta gurile de ventilatie prin care aerul de afara e 'tras' in subsolul racorit de apa havuzurilor.
Dupa ce va fi racit aerul va fi dirijat printr-o sofisticata retea de canale in toate camerele resedintei asigurand astfel confort pe timp de vara.
Ma rog, asa functiona pe timpul sahilor epocii qajare. La ora actuala intreg sistemul de racire a fost dezafectat pentru ca in subsolurile ce candva aveau havuzuri functionale acum s-au amenajat diverse muzee ( Howz Khaneh, Aks Khaneh ...)

Un sistem de aer conditionat traditional persan, cu turnuri de ventilatie bine proiectate si cu un numar suficient de guri de aerisire, poate asigura in interior o temperatura de 23C in timp ce afara sunt 38C - 40C.



Gurile de ventilatie rareori depasesc inaltimea de un metru si intotdeauna sunt plasate la nivelul solului. Mie mi-a atras atentia faptul ca temelia palatului e 'intrerupta' pe alocuri de ferestre de mici dimensiuni.
M-am uitat prin una, curioasa fiind sa vad ce-i inauntru, si am descoperit singura utilitatea lor.

Ar mai fi de spus doua cuvinte despre foto 48. Culorile de baza ale mozaicului, acel verde special si acel portocaliu rosiatic ce imita coaja de kumquat, pot fi intalnite si in alte parti ale incintei, in special in Shams-ul Emareh (Pavilionul Soarelui) despre care am vorbit pe pagina precedenta.
Sunt nuante caracteristice paletei cromatice a Palatului Golestan, as indrazni sa spun ca reprezinta tusa de originalitate a palatului.
Nuante mai deosebite de verde, deosebite in sensul ca nu se intalnesc in alte resedinte, palate, moschei, bazaruri, scoli religioase si bai publice, pot fi admirate in Emarat-e Bad Ghir (Pavilionul cu Turnuri care prind vantul smile.gif )

Voi reveni cu imagini pentru a ilustra spusele.
exergy33
... ...

foto49 ............................................ foto50....................................foto51

Am ajuns cu povestitul la un alt pavilion smile.gif
E vorba de Emarat-e Bad Ghir, adica de "pavilionul cu turnuri ce prind vantul" si care, deseori, din cauza turnurilor, e confundat cu Pavilionul Soarelui ( Shams-ul Emareh).
Mie nu mi se par asemanatoare. Ba chiar as putea spune ca nu se aseamna deloc. rolleyes.gif

Emarat-e Bad Ghir are o arhitectura distincta, cu un pridvor ce imi aduc in memorie pridvoarele conacurilor romanesti, si o paleta cromatica unica in tot Iranul.

Pridvorul e incadrat de doua coloane inalte imbracate in cioburi de oglinda iar treptele sunt strajuite de ziduri mozaicate.



Peretii interiori ai pridvorului sunt impodobiti cu modele sofisticate, greoaie chiar, de culoarea bronzului patinat.
Aceste modele florale si vegetale sunt aplicate pe fonduri inchise la culoare : un verde mai special, albastru inchis si rosu.

Am si eu un fix cu acest pavilion, cat si cu Pavilionul Soarelui, deoarece ambele imi induc senzatia ca m-as afla in Thailanda sau undeva prin vecinatatea ei.

Aceasta cladire ventilata in mod optim, in subsolul careia se afla havuzul sistemului de aclimatizare, era folosita doar pe timpul anotimpului cald.
In prezent subsolul gazduieste un muzeu improvizat denumit Aks Khaneh, adica Casa Fotografica.
La momentul potrivit voi da explicatiile de rigoare.

Acum va propun sa va uitati la fotografiile postate si pentru detaliile privind 'zugraveala' peretilor sa dati click pe foto 50 smile.gif .
exergy33
Azi, facand curatenie printre diverse facturi, hartii, pliante si bilete de avion, am descoperit o notita.
Am obiceiul ca, atunci cand sunt nevoita sa astept in aeroport, in gara, la banca sau prin diverse institutii, sa notez o serie de cuvinte pe spatele unor hartii care nu-mi mai sunt de trebuinta.
Adeseori scriu trei litere iar apoi incerc sa gasesc cuvinte care sa inceapa cu aceste trei litere.
Ultimul joc de acest gen se axa pe "pat". Reusisem sa gasesc urmatoarele :
pat
patrimoniu
patiserie
patine
patoc
patriarhal
patalama
patologic
patrulater
patrafir
pateu
patina
patent
pata
patrician
patrula
patern
patefon
patagonez
patos
patima

Ce-ar fi sa incercati si voi cu "por". In cazul in care depasiti 20 de cuvinte independente, anuntati-ma smile.gif.


exergy33
... ...
foto52.....................................................foto53...............
.........................foto54

Deci iata cum se prezinta cerdacul pavilionului. Aceasta combinatie de culori e unica in arhitectura Iranului. De notat vedele acesta mai special. Oricine priveste cateva imagini din pavilionul Emarat-e Bad Ghir e aproape imposibil ca sa nu le recunoasca ulterior in cazul in care le va vedea intr-un album sau un film documentar.




In interior fotografiatul era interzis, dar ... dar am fentat personalul de acolo trimitandu-l pe sotul meu sa le puna "cica" niste intrebari, scopul principal fiind ca sa-i tina de vorba in holul de la intrare, timp in care am fost harnica si am captat cinci imagini in salonul principal, acel salon cu vitralii multicolore si oglinzi pana in tavan (foto 54)
Fara lumina blitzului fotografiile nu au iesit cine stie ce. Eu insa ma declar multumita.
exergy33
Tot plimbandu-ma prin zona turnurilor de ventilatie am depistat o usa intredeschisa prin care se intrezarea un coridor cufundat in semiobscuritate.
Deci se putea sa fi trecut pe langa acea usa fara sa intru acolo?!!
Bineinteles ca nu smile.gif .

Asa ca am intrat. Ce-i drept, coridorul m-a surprins prin gradul mare de curatenie. Nefiind o zona destinata vizitatorilor nu-i de mirare ca arata foarte bine, caci pe acolo nu trece nimeni sa scrijeleasca zidurile, sa desprinda cate o bucata de mozaic ca s-o ia acasa drept suvenir, sa arunce ambalajul de la ciocolata sau sa lipeasca guma de mestecat pe rama vreunui tablou.
Chiar si ghiveciul de langa zid mi s-a parut suspect. Ce sa caute o planta in ghiveci pe un hol intunecos ce in permanenta e tinut sub cheie?
Totusi o lumina difuza galbuie, si o alta ceva mai albicioasa, aruncau umbre palide pe ziduri si pe pardoseala.

...

foto55.................................................. foto56

Deci spuneam ca am intrat si nu mica mi-a fost surpriza cand m-am apropiat de fereastra arcuita de la nivelul solului (peretele din stanga. Privirea mi-a cazut direct in havuzul din Aks Khaneh, sau mai bine zis in muzeul cu aparatura foto cumparata de peste hotare de Nasser al-Din Shah.



Pe pereti am vazut agatate zeci de fotografii de epoca. Dupa ce am iesit de aici am vizitat Aks Khaneh dar nu am putut fotografia nimic din cauza interdictiei. Totusi ca sa va faceti o impresie voi cauta prin arhiva si pe net niste fotografii facute de altii. Sper sa le atasez in postarea viitoare.

Pana atunci va las in fata unei guri de ventilatie ... asa cum se vede ea din interior, ca din exterior arata foarte frumos ( a se vedea foto 46, 47, 48)



foto57

De vreo trei patru ani am descoperit placerea de a capta in imagini astfel de ferestre cu arabescuri sau din caramida dantelata.
Cred ca de la Yazd mi se trage ... sau poate ca la Yazd am constientizat placerea de a sta in semiintuneric si de a privi prin ele culorile de afara.

... verdele mustind de clorofila al frunzelor intepate de acele soarelui, albastrul turcoaz sl cerului inalt de vara de la Isfahan, galbenul narciselor din parcul Palatului Niavaran, movul liliacului din gradina Dowlat Abad din Yazd, albul cretos al iasomiei din incinta resedintei Amerian din Kashan, lumina cruda de martie revarsata in Moscheea Vanata din Tabriz, rosul purpuriu al trandafirilor mormantului lui Saadi din Shiraz, compatibilitatea Naturii cu auriul din interiorul Mausoleului Sheikh Safi din Ardebil, plaja pustie albita de sare a lacului Urumieh, campiile cu iarba argintie si matasoasa pietanata de vanturile Zanjanului, scoarta ridata a copacilor din Gradinile Fin de la Kashan, iar acum caleidoscopul multicolor al curtii Palaltului Golestan din Teheran.

In Kermanshah, Qom, Khoramabad, Sari si Hamadan nu am facut nici o fotografie cu ferestre dantelate.
Orasele astea le-am vizitat inainte de Yazd si acum constat ca pe vremea aceea nu ma atrageau ferestrele ... doar inscriptiile cuneiforme sapate adanc in piatra smile.gif .
exergy33
De la bun inceput trebuie sa spun ca nici una din fotografiile introduse in aceasta postare nu-mi apartine ... dar asta nu constituie un impediment in a va forma o idee despre cum arata Aks Khaneh, adica Muzeul Fotografic.

......

foto58............................................... foto59.................................. foto60

Amenajat la subsol, acolo unde noi traim cu impresia ca ar trebui sa existe tevi ruginite, umezeala, panze de paianjen, soareci si un miros ranced, de apa statuta, avem surpriza sa constatam ca subsolurile resedintelor persane, ce inainte de Qajari ce in epoca Qajara, reprezentau mici bijuterii arhitectonice, cu bolte inedite prin jocul de linii geometrice, cu havuzuri mozaicate, cu guri de aerisire si luminoare dublate uneori de vitralii multicolore ... intr-un cuvant un spatiu cu mult gust estetic.



In acest subsol, pe timpul Qajarilor, functiona inima sistemului de climatizare al Palatului.
Acum aici au fost aranjate aparatele foto, lentilele si alte instrumente legate de arta fotografica pe care Nasser Din Shah le-a cumparat personal sau le-a comandat din Farang (Europa).

Pot fi vazute deasemeni zeci de fotografii de epoca, unele realizate de Antoine Sevruguin, altele de Nasser al-Din Shah insusi, dar si cateva facute de renumiti fotografi europeni ce au vizitat Persia Qajara si mai apoi Iranul dinastiei Pahlavi, caci, am mai spus-o in diverse randuri, de abia dupa preluarea puterii, Reza Khan aka Reza Shah a schimbat denumirea tarii din Persia in Iran ...

...
foto61....................................foto62

Nu as vrea sa trec indiferenta pe langa Antoine Sevruguin, poate ca cel mai important fotograf pe care l-a avut Persia/Iranul smile.gif .

In cateva cuvinte iata biografia lui.
Antoine Sevruguin provenea dintr-o familie de armeni din Rusia Tarista, tatal sau facand parte din serviciul diplomatic.
Impreuna cu fratii sai deschide in 1860 un studio fotografic la Teheran.
Antoine nu era doar un fotograf ce facea portrete pentru personajele 'high class', el era totodata un foarte bun peisagist (ca sa ma exprim asa), un fin observator al aspectelor citadine pe care le-a captat in sute de fotografii unice, dar si un admirator al monumentelor de tot soiul - pe care le-a fotografiat din unghiuri diverse.

Antoine a fost fotograful oficial al curtii regale si a lucrat de-a lungul vietii pentru ultimii trei shahi ai dinastiei Qajare.



Antoine Sevruguin e cel ce introduce in Europa, si in general in lumea civilizata, unele imagini stereotip, imagini de tip cliseu legate de societatea persana.
Ziare si reviste de renume din Franta, Austria, Germania, Italia, Rusia, Elvetia, precum si cele din zona Orientului Apropiat si Mijlociu, i-au publicat fotografiile.

Cred, dar nu sunt sigura unsure.gif , ca cea mai mare si mai veche colectie de imagini din Iran i-a apartinut lui Sevruguin cu toate ca Reza Khan a ordonat sa i se distruga o serie de fotografii ce nu corespundeau 'gustului' sau artistic, asta dupa ce, anterior, in razmerita din 1908 brigazile de cazaci i-au ars vreo doua mii de fotografii si negative.
Sevruguin a fost indragostit de Iran, caci daca nu ar fi fost asa, la prima calatorie facuta pe aceste meleaguri, nu s-ar fi hotarat sa ramana aici.

Deci a ramas.
A ramas peste saizeci de ani, timp in care s-a s-a casatorit cu o armeanca din Iran, a facut si crescut vreo sapte opt copii, a fotografiat tara in lung si in lat, a fost apreciat de trei shahi si a primit din partea fiecaruia titlul de "fotograf oficial al curtii regale", ca, in final, la peste nouazeci de ani, sa moara la Teheran.

Fluent in armeana, franceza, rusa si persana, scriind texte in toate aceste patru limbi, cunoscator la nivel mediu de germana si italiana, Sevruguin a devenit repede un apropiat al shahului pe care l-a indrumat in developarea fotografiilor, caci relatia dintre el si Nasser Din Shah nu a fost una de la angajat la angajator ci una bazata pe o stima si prietenie sincera.
exergy33
Am iesit si am inconjurat din nou Pavilionul Emarat-e Bad Ghir in speranta ca voi gasi o portita de acces spre gradina interioara dintre ziduri, gradina bine ascunsa privirii intrusilor.
Nici o sansa!!

In fereastra unei camere de la etaj am observat doua sevalete. Deci cineva, acolo sus, picta gradina si Palatul Golestan smile.gif .. (foto 63)


A trebuit sa ma multumesc doar cu cateva fotografii facute prin grilaj sau de peste grilaj (foto 64 si 65). Un copac extrem de inalt, aproape la fel de inalt ca turnul de ventilatie, mi-a atras atentia.
Am inconjurat cladirea pentru a-l fotografia mai de aproape (foto 64).



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foto63............................................foto64........................
.....foto65.........................foto66



In final, obosita de umblatura, am cautat un loc umbros in gradina principala. Arbori de toate dimensiunile, de la cei pitici la cei foarte inalti, stateau laolalta la sfat ca intr-un fel de "sedinta de divan" din vremurile trecute (foto 66).

exergy33
Incet dar sigur ma apropii de finalul vizitei. Dar inainte de a ajunge la Sala Tronului doresc sa fac un tur de onoare al parcului Palatului Golestan.



... ...
foto67 ............................................... foto68 ........................................ fot69


Apa bazinului ce oglindeste cerul si pavilioanele din jur oferea un plus de stralucire parcului aflat inca in lucru.
Am vazut multi copaci taiati de la radacina, altii cu crengile proaspat taiate (la sfarsitul lui august!!!... chiar m-am mirat) dar si unii arbori strambi, inclinati intr-o parte (foto 68).
Toamna plutea in aer desi calendaristic vara nu se sfarsise. Poate ca foto 69 va va convinge ca asa era smile.gif ...
exergy33
Iata ca am ajuns in Sala Tronului de Marmura - Eyvan-e Takhte Marmar (Iwan-e Takhte Marmar) in persana.
E o sala de dimensiuni mari, atat pe verticala cat si pe orizontala, impodobita cu picturi murale, mozaicuri, lucratura in marmura si ghips, sculptura in lemn si pictura pe lemn aurit, oglinzi, vitralii, feronerie si decoratii emailate.

Aceasta parte a Palatului Golestan a fost zidita in 1806 din ordinul lui Fath Ali Shah dar ulterior a fost restaurata si imbogatita dupa gustul estetic al lui Nasser al Din Shah.

Pe pereti pot fi vazute o serie de picturi murale. Nimic deosebit pana aici doar ca, spre mai mare hazul, portretul lui Fath Ali Shah (celebru pentru imensa lui barba neagra) se afla in vecinatatea unei scene de grup cu femei in haine europene ... cam decoltate daca e sa luam drept standard normele islamice. smile.gif .
La ultima mea vizita peretele respectiv se afla in restaurare, cred ca a doua restaurare.
Oricum, am inteles ca statul a pus accent pe aceasta pictura. Din pacate nu sunt suficient de bine documentata ca sa zic cine si cand a pictat-o.
In cazul in care voi gasi informatiile necesare voi reveni asupra ei.




... ... foto67 ................................................... foto68 ................................ foto69


Tronul din marmura, interesant conceput, e sprijinit pe umerii unor femei si al unor pitici cu figuri grotesti. Nu am inteles simbolistica reprezentarii atat de diferita de ceea ce am vazut pana acum, si diferita chiar de stilul decorativ persan/iranian.





Aceleasi statuete feminine, dar in marime mai mica, impodobesc partea superioara a tronului in prelungirea caruia se afla un havuz.



foto70

Vitraliile, atat in ce priveste coloristica cat si minutiozitatea elvetiana a executiei, pot fi trecute in topul celor mai frumoase vitralii din Iran.

Cla
Daca se pun americanii sa distruga frumusetile astea, ma duc la razboi.
exergy33

Au trecut zile bune de cand nu am mai scris nimic in jurnal. Timpul s-a contractat dintr-o data si trebuie sa recunosc ca de vreo doua luni duc o existenta semi-automatizata. Nu am ragaz sa ma gandesc la nimeni, nici macar la mine insami ... tin celularul inchis si-l pun pe sotul meu sa minta ca nu-s acasa in cazul in care ma cauta cineva pe telefonul fix sorry.gif .
Noaptea inchid ochii si ma trezesc dintr-o data dimineata. Am impresia ca nu am dormit nici un minut.

Atunci cand gasesc o picatura de timp liber constat ca imi lipseste puterea de concentrare, nu-mi pot prinde cuvintele in ganduri clare ... deci renunt sa mai scriu.
Alteori sunt suficient de odihnita si ideile mi se insira ca margelele pe firul de matase ... dar tocmai atunci se iveste o problema ce trebuie rezolvata, sau trebuie sa ma deplasez undeva, sau ma pierd in actiuni secundare.

Astept sa se termine perioada asta, sa ajung la final cu toate proiectele incepute, sa arunc la Trash toate Handbookurile si tabelele ... si sa ma tot duc prin locuri mai putin umblate.

Incredibil ca, in ciuda acestei crize legate de timp, am reusit sa citesc cateva carti ( chiar daca uneori doar 10-15 pagini pe zi) si ma ambitionez sa le citesc si pe celelalte puse deoparte smile.gif.

dascalita
Eu duc dorul postarilor tale, dar...inteleg prin ce treci...Rabdare, ia lucrurile asa cum vin, vei ajunge candva la liman.
Numai bine!
exergy33
@dascalita mwah1.gif

... ...

A venit timpul sa inchei dosarul Palatului Golestan si cred ca pentru acest final de calatorie cele mai reprezentative imagini ar fi cele cu mozaicurile peretilor curtii interioare.
Nu degeaba s-a spus ca arta decorativa a Golestanului ar reprezenta o fuziune intre est si vest ... sau intre vest si est smile.gif ...




Daca peretii cu motive strict geometrice, sobre si cam seci in comparatie cu jungla de arabescuri a mozaicurilor tipic persane, produc surprize majore in randul vizitatorilor vestici, pe mine m-a surprins alaturarea acestor doua tipuri de pereti ... dar mai ales m-a surprins faptul ca 'merg' impreuna.
Nu zgaraie in mod neplacut retina, nu socheaza prin alaturare, nu dezechilibeaza armonia complexului arhitectonic.




Secretul consta, banuiesc, in doza de luminozitate a modelelor, in paleta coloristica ce are la baza cateva culori comune subtil alese, si nu in ultimul rand intr-o muzicalitate ascunsa ce transcede vizualul.




... est si vest, Orient si Occident, linii curbe si unghiuri ascutite ... contrastele isi vor cauta intotdeauna complementaritatea wink.gif .
exergy33
Linia orizontului se imbiba treptat de arama soarelui ce pare sa se topeasca direct in mare.
In cateva minute linia orizontului va dispare cu desavarsire, mi-am zis in gand cu o usurare stranie, de parca acea linie mi-ar fi ingreunat respiratia.

Gata! Linia s-a dizolvat complet.
Imi aud gandurile cum tropotesc naravase. Pixul nu le poate in nici un fel struni pe hartie.

In departare se aude vocea muezinului ...de jur imprejur nu se zareste nici un minaret.

Acum chiar imi vine sa zambesc.
Daca ai fi aici poate ca ti-as raspunde la ultima intrebare. Dar nu-mi amintesc ultima intrebare smile.gif

Aerul miroase a "zapada de Rusia", a lemn umed si a macese degerate ...

exergy33
Cred ca e timpul sa iau o pauza prelungita de Han. Cine stie? Poate se va transforma in una definitiva.

Nu, nu din cauza disputelor de la topicurile de politica. Cu alea sunt deja obisnuita smile.gif .
Cand vad insa in ce hal schingiuiesc unii limba romana, si cat de dusmani sunt cu gramatica, imi trece cheful de a mai citi ceva. La inceput am tot incercat sa reduc numarul subiectelor de discutie ce-mi provocau alergie Apoi mi-am dat seama ca-i inutil ce fac.
In ultima vreme, cu mici exceptii, am citit doar ce s-a postat prin jurnale, singurul loc de fapt unde atmosfera a ramas aproximativ la fel.

Nu inteleg placerea sadica de a poci limba materna. O fi 'cool' ? ... sau eu sunt prea batrana pentru a ma adapta la limbaj ?

In orice caz, in blogosfera romaneasca exista inca destule spatii virtuale pe care le vizitez cu placere.

In cazul in care nu voi mai posta aici, va doresc de pe acum tuturor un An Bun, bun in toate !

Frisky
Un an plin de sanatate si bucurii si tie, Exergy! hug.gif

Marduk
QUOTE(exergy33 @ 9 Dec 2011, 04:28 PM) *
... Cine stie? Poate se va transforma in una definitiva.

Ar fi pacat, lasand la o parte problemele pe care le ai fata de gramatica celor care posteaza, eu cred ca ar trebui sa ti cont de ceea ce vor sa transmita si nu la modul in care respecta regulile gramaticale. Cum ai putea sa te superi fata de limba vorbita de taranii din Bucovina sau din Timoc si ei vorbesc aceiasi limba ca noi dar nu folosesc aceiasi gramatica. Cand vorbesti cu un om eu cred ca este mai important sa observi ce vrea sa comunice decat felul in care se exprima. La multi ani! sa fi fericita alaturi de cei pe care-i iubesti si care te iubesc.
exergy33
Multumesc pentru urari smile.gif

Cautand informatii in limba persana despre "sundial bridge" am nimerit pe un site care, printre altele, prezenta un amplu reportaj foto de la un concurs de miss la care au participat exclusiv reprezentantele tarilor de limba araba ... deci Iranul, Turcia, Pakistanul si alte tari predominant islamice dar ne-arabe nu au avut reprezentante.
Interesant de accesat rolleyes.gif .

Nu stiu cum de Miss Arabia Saudita a primit punctajul maxim. Evident ca juriul a avut alte gusturi si standarde de jurizare decat mine.
Personal am apreciat-o mai mult pe Miss Siria.
Felina
pentru ca Miss Arabia Saudita a reprezentat cel mai bine spiritul... arab?
turbo trabant
Cand o sa vedeti un juriu compus numai din femei bogate atunci va puteti pune intrebari.

Libanul si palestina.
exergy33
Cu vreo doi trei ani in urma, ca urmare a disputelor de pe unul din threadurile legate de Iran, islam, conditia femeii ... nu mai tin minte exact, abis ma sfatuia sa postez imagini din Iran pentru a demonstra ca realitatea nu e tocmai cea prezentata de mass-media oficiala iraniana - toate femeile imbracate (obligat) in valuri negre, si nici cea trambitata de unele cotidiene internationale ce urmaresc cu strictete o linie directoare in articolele legate de societatea iraniana.

Atunci am postat cateva. Acum insa realizez faptul ca impactul vizual al imaginilor e mult mai puternic decat cel al cuvintelor, in speta cuvintele mele ca martor ocular al "curgerii" societatii iraniene.

Pentru azi am ales un link care va poate duce la ceremonia organizata cu ocazia aniversarii a cinsprezece ani de existenta a Casei Cinematografiei/ Casei Cinemaului, Khane-e Cinema in persana.
Pagina se incarca mai greu deoarece contine foarte multe fotografii de dimensiuni mari. Sunt fotografii captate atat pe scena cat si in sala. Deci actori si spectatori bucurandu-se impreuna.

Aici va puteti face o prima impresie legata de look-ul oamenilor de o anumita formatie: actori, spectatori, ziaristi, critici de film si teatru.
Atentie la toaletele si accesoriile purtate de doamne si domnisoare smile.gif

Voi reveni cu un alt link de la un concert rock.
Marduk

Ce femei frumoase sunt in Iran, chiar ar fi pacat ca fata sa le fie acoperita cu un voal, eu cred ca este de ajuns acest "batic" sunt chiar mai atragatoare.
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